The Cartier Santos-Dumont XL represents the modern evolution of watchmaking history’s first purpose-built wristwatch. Named after Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont, for whom Louis Cartier created the original Santos in 1904, this XL model launched in 2020 maintains the iconic squared case with exposed screws while introducing refined proportions for contemporary tastes. With its manually-wound movement, ultra-thin profile, and distinctive design elements, the Santos-Dumont XL combines historical significance with elegant sophistication, offering a timepiece that transcends passing trends.
Condition: Excellent pre-owned condition
Includes: Complete box set
Guarantee: Warranty valid until 2031
Shipping: Free UK delivery
The Santos watch holds a special place in horological history as the world’s first purpose-built wristwatch designed for practical use. In 1904, Louis Cartier created this revolutionary timepiece for his friend, the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who needed to check the time while keeping both hands on his aircraft controls. This innovation marked a pivotal transition from pocket watches to wristwatches, changing how timepieces would be worn forever. The Santos-Dumont collection honours this legacy with design elements that remain faithful to the original while incorporating subtle refinements. Released in 2020, the XL manual-wind version received critical acclaim for its elegant proportions and refined execution, continuing the Santos tradition of innovation while respecting its historical significance.
The Santos-Dumont represents the world’s first purpose-built wristwatch designed for practical use, marking a revolutionary moment in horological history. In 1904, Louis Cartier created the original Santos for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, a pioneering Brazilian aviator who needed to check time while keeping both hands on his flying machine’s controls. Prior to this innovation, men typically carried pocket watches, which were impractical during flight. This solution to a practical problem transformed how timepieces would be worn going forward, establishing the modern concept of the wristwatch.
The Santos-Dumont’s square case with visible screws—inspired by the structural elements of Parisian architecture that Santos-Dumont admired—created a design language that has remained relevant for over a century, influencing countless watches and establishing Cartier as a visionary watchmaker.
The Santos-Dumont XL, introduced in 2020, represents a distinctive size option within the collection, measuring 46.6mm x 33.9mm. This places it between the Large model (38mm x 27.5mm) and the earlier, discontinued Santos-Dumont XLS (51.3mm x 44.2mm). The XL’s proportions offer impressive presence while maintaining elegant wearability through its ultra-thin 7.5mm profile.
Unlike some other Santos-Dumont models featuring quartz movements, the XL houses the manual-winding mechanical Calibre 430 MC, appealing to enthusiasts of traditional watchmaking. This model also features more refined finishing details, including the sophisticated sunray-effect dial, which creates dynamic light play across the surface. These distinctions position the XL as the perfect balance of presence and refinement within the Santos-Dumont family.
The Calibre 430 MC represents fine watchmaking tradition with its manually-wound mechanism based on the highly regarded Piaget 430P. This ultra-thin movement measures just 2.1mm in height, allowing for the Santos-Dumont XL’s impressively slim 7.5mm case profile. With 18 jewels and a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), it provides excellent precision while maintaining a respectable 38-hour power reserve.
The movement features traditional decorative techniques including côtes de Genève striping and circular graining, visible through the exhibition caseback. The manual winding mechanism creates a more intimate connection between owner and timepiece through the daily ritual of winding, a process that mechanical watch enthusiasts particularly appreciate. This combination of technical excellence and traditional craftsmanship perfectly complements the Santos-Dumont’s historical significance.
The Santos-Dumont XL excels in versatility, effortlessly transitioning between formal and casual settings. For business and formal occasions, its refined proportions, elegant thin profile, and classic design elements make it an ideal dress watch that pairs perfectly with suits and formal attire. The navy blue alligator strap and matching blue details provide a sophisticated accent that elevates any ensemble. For more casual settings, the distinctive squared case and visible screws offer a sporty heritage element that works well with smart-casual or weekend attire.
The 3 bar water resistance provides practical protection for everyday activities, while the sapphire crystal ensures durability. Additionally, the strap can be changed to alter the watch’s character. A tan or brown alligator strap creates a more casual appearance, while maintaining the steel bracelet option offers greater versatility.
Within Cartier’s legendary collection of shaped watches, the Santos-Dumont holds particular distinction as the brand’s first wristwatch design. While the Tank (introduced in 1917) may rival its fame with its rectangular case inspired by military tanks, the Santos-Dumont’s square shape with rounded corners and visible screws creates a more technical aesthetic with direct connections to early aviation. Compared to the Panthère, which shares similar case architecture but offers a more jewellery-oriented interpretation, the Santos-Dumont presents a more understated elegance.
The modern Ballon Bleu, with its distinctive crown protection, offers a more contemporary design language, while the Santos-Dumont remains more closely connected to its historical roots. What distinguishes the Santos-Dumont among these icons is its unique combination of historical significance as the original men’s wristwatch and its distinctive industrial-inspired aesthetic that remains remarkably relevant over a century later.
Close examination reveals the exceptional attention to detail that distinguishes the Santos-Dumont XL. The case features perfectly executed transitions between polished and brushed surfaces, creating subtle light play across its facets. The bezel screws are not merely decorative but precisely aligned and finished, reflecting Cartier’s commitment to technical execution. The silvered dial displays a complex sunray pattern radiating from the centre, creating dynamic light effects as the watch moves. The Roman numerals are precisely printed, maintaining consistent weight and proportion despite their varying sizes around the dial.
The sword-shaped hands are thermally blued rather than painted, achieving their distinctive colour through a traditional heat treatment process that creates a more nuanced, enduring finish. Even unseen details like the movement decoration and the leather strap’s meticulous stitching and edge finishing demonstrate Cartier‘s comprehensive approach to quality that extends beyond mere aesthetics.
For any purchases online, we offer a 14 day refund as long as they are returned exactly as sold. Any purchases in person are final.
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