Founded by Italo Fontana in 2000, U-BOAT has rapidly established itself as one of Italy’s most distinctive luxury watch brands. Based in Lucca, Tuscany, U-BOAT draws inspiration from an unproduced design created by Italo’s grandfather Ilvo Fontana for the Italian Navy in 1942. The brand’s timepieces are characterised by their bold proportions, left-handed crown placement, and distinctive aesthetic that blends military inspiration with Italian flair for dramatic design.
At MVS Watches, we present a carefully curated selection of pre-owned U-BOAT timepieces. Whether you’re drawn to the technical complexity of the Chimera, the classic military styling of the Classico, the professional diving standards of the Sommerso, or the avant-garde design of limited edition pieces, our collection represents the finest examples of U-BOAT craftsmanship available on the secondary market.
Original price was: £1,750.00.£1,550.00Current price is: £1,550.00.
In stock
Original price was: £1,850.00.£1,500.00Current price is: £1,500.00.
In stock
U-BOAT’s story begins with a fortuitous discovery when designer Italo Fontana uncovered technical drawings created by his grandfather Ilvo Fontana in 1942 for a watch commissioned by the Italian Navy. Inspired by these designs and driven by a passion for bold aesthetics, Italo established U-BOAT in 2000, creating watches that would honor his grandfather’s legacy while establishing a distinctive presence in contemporary watchmaking.
Key milestones in U-BOAT’s development include:
Throughout its relatively brief history, U-BOAT has established a clear identity in the luxury watch market through distinctive design language, technical innovation, and unwavering commitment to Italian craftsmanship. While honoring the military inspiration of Ilvo Fontana’s original designs, the brand has evolved to incorporate contemporary materials and manufacturing techniques, creating timepieces that stand apart from the conventions of traditional Swiss watchmaking with their bold Italian character.
The Chimera represents one of U-BOAT’s most technically ambitious collections, combining the brand’s distinctive aesthetic with sophisticated chronograph functionality. Named after the mythological creature composed of parts from multiple animals, the Chimera embodies U-BOAT’s philosophy of combining diverse elements into a harmonious whole. These watches feature U-BOAT’s signature oversized cases, typically 43mm to 46mm in diameter, with the distinctive crown placement at 9 o’clock protected by an innovative locking mechanism.
What distinguishes the Chimera collection is its multi-layered dial construction and case complexity. Many models incorporate sapphire elements that reveal the mechanical workings beneath, while the chronograph functions are displayed through uniquely designed subdials and pushers that complement the overall aesthetic. Materials range from stainless steel and titanium to bronze, carbon fibre, and even ceramic, often combined within a single timepiece to create visual and textural contrast. Limited editions within the Chimera line frequently showcase innovative finishing techniques or material combinations that push the boundaries of conventional watch design.
The Classico collection represents U-BOAT’s interpretation of traditional military watch design, offering the most direct connection to Ilvo Fontana’s original 1942 designs for the Italian Navy. These watches feature cleaner dials and more restrained proportions compared to other U-BOAT collections, though they maintain the brand’s distinctive left-handed crown configuration and substantial presence. Classico models typically range from 40mm to 45mm in diameter, making them among the more wearable options in the U-BOAT lineup.
Defining characteristics of the Classico include highly legible dials with Arabic numerals, distinctive hands inspired by historical military watches, and the signature U-BOAT crown protection system. While maintaining visual links to vintage military timepieces, these watches incorporate modern materials and construction techniques, including automatic Swiss movements, sapphire crystals, and innovative case constructions. The Classico line demonstrates how U-BOAT balances respect for historical inspiration with contemporary engineering and Italian design sensibility.
The Sommerso collection showcases U-BOAT’s approach to professional dive watches, combining serious underwater functionality with the brand’s distinctive aesthetic. Named after the Italian word for “submerged,” these timepieces feature substantial water resistance (typically 300 meters) and robust construction designed for actual diving use. The collection maintains U-BOAT’s signature left-hand crown placement while incorporating essential dive watch features including unidirectional rotating bezels, enhanced luminosity, and exceptional legibility underwater.
What sets the Sommerso apart from conventional dive watches is U-BOAT’s distinctive design language, with oversized cases (typically 44mm to 46mm), bold dial layouts, and unique material combinations. Available in various iterations including bronze, stainless steel, and titanium cases with contrasting bezel materials, the Sommerso collection represents U-BOAT’s ability to create functional tool watches that maintain the brand’s unmistakable character. These pieces offer genuine diving capability while making a powerful visual statement both in and out of the water.
The Darkmoon collection represents one of U-BOAT’s most visually striking innovations, featuring dials encapsulated in a special oil that creates a unique visual effect. This oil-filling technique produces an exceptional depth and richness to the dial, with absolute clarity from any viewing angle and a distinctive appearance where the hands and markers seem to float directly beneath the crystal. The oil also provides practical benefits, eliminating reflections and enhancing legibility in various lighting conditions.
Available in multiple sizes including more modest 38mm and 40mm options as well as U-BOAT’s traditional larger cases, the Darkmoon collection offers vibrant coloured dials that appear particularly striking thanks to the oil-filling technique. The collection features both time-only models and chronograph variations, all displaying the dramatic visual effect of the oil-filled dial construction. The Darkmoon showcases U-BOAT’s willingness to explore unconventional technical solutions while creating watches with immediate visual impact and recognition, offering a distinctive alternative within the luxury watch market.
U-BOAT’s approach to case design constitutes one of the brand’s most recognisable technical signatures. Unlike conventional watch cases that typically comprise three main components (case body, bezel, and case back), many U-BOAT watches feature multi-part constructions with as many as 12 separate elements secured together with external fasteners. This approach, particularly evident in collections like the Chimera, creates unique visual depth and allows for the combination of different materials within a single case.
Another distinctive aspect of U-BOAT case design is the left-sided crown placement, typically at the 9 o’clock position rather than the traditional 3 o’clock. This configuration was originally inspired by military watches designed for easier operation when worn on the left wrist, but has become a defining aesthetic signature of the brand. U-BOAT has enhanced this feature with innovative crown protection systems, including hinged guards and locking mechanisms that add both functional value and visual interest.
U-BOAT has consistently pushed boundaries in its use of materials, often combining conventional watchmaking substances with elements rarely seen in luxury timepieces:
This material diversity reflects U-BOAT’s creative approach to watchmaking, prioritising distinctive character and visual impact alongside traditional considerations of durability and function.
While U-BOAT’s primary focus has been on distinctive design rather than movement development, the brand carefully selects and modifies Swiss movements to meet its technical requirements. Most U-BOAT watches feature automatic mechanical movements from established suppliers like ETA and Sellita, chosen for their reliability and serviceability. These base calibres are often customised with specialised finishing and modifications to accommodate U-BOAT’s unique case designs and crown placements.
For chronograph models, particularly in the Chimera collection, U-BOAT typically employs the Valjoux 7750 or similar movements, renowned for their robust construction and proven performance. The brand’s focus remains on ensuring reliable timekeeping while directing its innovative energy toward case design, material combinations, and visual distinctiveness, an approach that allows U-BOAT to offer compelling value within the luxury watch market by balancing technical quality with creative design.
Despite utilising Swiss movements, U-BOAT maintains a strong commitment to Italian craftsmanship in the design, case manufacturing, and finishing of its timepieces. The company’s headquarters in Lucca, Tuscany, serves as both a creative studio and production facility where many of the distinctive elements of U-BOAT watches are conceived and created. This connection to Italian craftsmanship traditions is particularly evident in the hand-finishing techniques applied to limited editions and special collections.
The Unicum collection exemplifies this artisanal approach, with each piece undergoing hand-applied treatments that create unique aesthetic effects. Similarly, the assembly and quality control of all U-BOAT watches takes place in Italy, ensuring that each timepiece reflects the brand’s Italian identity despite incorporating Swiss movement technology. This blend of Italian design sensibility with Swiss technical precision creates watches with a distinctive character that stands apart from both traditional Swiss luxury brands and fashion-oriented Italian manufacturers.
While U-BOAT watches are known for their bold proportions, with case sizes typically ranging from 43mm to 55mm, many collectors find them surprisingly wearable due to thoughtful ergonomic design. The left-handed crown placement contributes to comfort for most wearers by preventing the crown from digging into the wrist. Additionally, U-BOAT has expanded its offerings to include more moderately sized models, particularly in the Classico and Capsoil collections, with some watches available in 38mm-42mm case sizes. The key to wearability is finding the model that suits your wrist size and personal comfort preferences, as the visual impact of these distinctive timepieces often becomes their most appreciated feature.
The left-sided crown placement (typically at 9 o’clock) originates from Ilvo Fontana’s 1942 designs for the Italian Navy. This configuration was originally intended to make the watches more practical for military personnel, allowing easier operation while wearing gloves and preventing the crown from digging into the wrist during active duty. When Italo Fontana established U-BOAT in 2000, he maintained this distinctive feature from his grandfather’s designs, transforming it from a purely functional element into a signature aesthetic characteristic that immediately identifies a timepiece as a U-BOAT creation.
U-BOAT represents a different approach to luxury watchmaking compared to traditional Swiss brands. While established Swiss manufacturers often emphasise heritage, in-house movements, and horological complications, U-BOAT focuses on distinctive design, material innovation, and Italian craftsmanship. The brand utilises reliable Swiss movements but directs its creative energy toward unique case constructions, material combinations, and visual impact. This approach results in watches that make a bold statement and offer a strong design identity at relatively accessible price points within the luxury watch market. For collectors seeking something distinctive that stands apart from conventional luxury watches, U-BOAT offers a compelling alternative with authentic Italian character.
U-BOAT watches should primarily be viewed as expressions of personal style rather than investment vehicles. Limited editions and special collections may maintain stronger value due to their rarity, particularly models from the Unicum line where each piece is unique. However, like most contemporary luxury watches, standard production U-BOAT models typically experience some depreciation from retail pricing in the secondary market. We recommend purchasing pre-owned U-BOAT watches for their distinctive aesthetic appeal and the enjoyment of ownership, with potential value retention as a secondary consideration.
Authentic U-BOAT watches feature distinctive characteristics that counterfeiters often struggle to replicate convincingly. Look for precision in the multi-part case construction, with clean fitting of components and proper alignment of external fasteners. The crown locking mechanism should operate smoothly with solid engagement. Dial details should show fine printing quality and proper depth between layers. The case back should feature clear, precise engravings rather than etched or printed markings. Given the complexity of authentic U-BOAT designs, poor finishing quality or simplified construction often indicates a counterfeit. For definitive authentication, we recommend having the watch examined by authorised U-BOAT retailers or purchasing from trusted pre-owned businesses like MVS Watches who are familiar with the specific characteristics of genuine U-BOAT timepieces.
Explore the world of pre-owned U-BOAT watches and own a piece of Italian luxury. Whether you’re adding to your collection, searching for a meaningful gift, or investing in a rare timepiece, our curated selection has something extraordinary waiting for you.
Call us at 07793 488492 or email info@mvswatches.com
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