In the ever-evolving landscape of horology, microbrand watches have carved out a significant niche, captivating enthusiasts with their distinctive designs, compelling value propositions, and passionate brand stories. But what exactly are microbrands, and why have they become increasingly relevant in a market traditionally dominated by established Swiss giants?
At MVS Watches, we’ve curated an exceptional collection of microbrand timepieces, from the colourful innovations of Farer to the vintage-inspired creations of Baltic. This comprehensive microbrand watches guide aims to explore the fascinating world of independent watchmaking, answering the most common questions collectors have, and showcasing some of the most exciting names in the space.
Microbrand watches represent a paradigm shift in how timepieces reach consumers. Unlike established manufacturers with centuries of heritage, extensive retail networks, and substantial marketing budgets, microbrands operate on fundamentally different principles:
These structural differences permit microbrands to deliver distinctive timepieces that often offer exceptional specifications at their respective price points, challenging the value proposition of more established manufacturers.
Several key characteristics differentiate microbrands from both major luxury manufacturers and independent watchmakers:
While often used interchangeably, “independent” and “microbrand” describe different segments of the watch market:
Independent Watchmakers such as F.P. Journe, Philippe Dufour, or Kari Voutilainen are master craftsmen creating high-end timepieces with significant in-house development, often with prices starting in the tens of thousands. They typically produce dozens rather than hundreds of watches annually, with emphasis on traditional hand craftsmanship and horological innovation.
Microbrands, in contrast, usually operate at lower price points (typically £500-£5,000), often utilising sourced movements from suppliers like Sellita, ETA, or Miyota. Their value proposition focuses on distinctive design, quality finishing, and direct pricing rather than mechanical innovation or in-house movements.
Some brands exist in a middle ground, starting as microbrands but evolving toward independent status as they develop more in-house capabilities. Brands like Ming and Anordain exemplify this transition, having begun as microbrands but increasingly developing unique technical capabilities.
The microbrand space is incredibly diverse, with hundreds of brands worldwide offering unique perspectives on horology. At MVS Watches, we’ve carefully selected some of the most exceptional microbrand timepieces for our collection, each representing a distinctive approach to watchmaking:
Founded in 2015, Farer exemplifies the potential of microbrands to carve distinctive aesthetic territory. Named after the archaic term for traveller or explorer, Farer combines quintessentially British design sensibilities with Swiss manufacturing precision.
Featured Model: Farer Burbidge Moonphase Manual Winding Watch (FCMP1) – £1,400
This exceptional timepiece showcases Farer’s signature approach to colour and detail with:
At £1,400, this moonphase complication delivers exceptional value compared to Swiss mainstream alternatives. The nearest equivalent from a major Swiss brand would be approximately the Longines Master Collection Moonphase at around £2,300, which lacks Farer’s distinctive design language and colour palette.
Founded in Paris in 2017, Baltic has quickly established itself as one of the most successful microbrands globally, known for its vintage-inspired designs executed with modern manufacturing standards. The brand’s aesthetics draw heavily from 1940s and 1950s timepieces, with clean dials, restrained sizing, and elegant proportions.
Featured Models: Baltic Hermétique Glacier Black and Glacier Icy White Limited Editions – £1,450
These stunning limited editions showcase Baltic’s attention to detail with:
Baltic exemplifies how microbrands can deliver exceptional quality and design at mid-range price points, offering true value to collectors who appreciate vintage aesthetics without vintage-related reliability concerns.
One of the newest success stories in the microbrand world, Furlan Marri launched in 2021 and immediately captured collectors’ attention with its beautifully executed chronographs inspired by vintage references from prestigious Swiss houses. The brand was founded by a watch designer and a vintage watch dealer, bringing complementary expertise to their creations.
Featured Model: Furlan Marri Mechaquartz Sage Green 38mm Chronograph Watch (2021) – £1,050
This elegant chronograph offers:
Furlan Marri demonstrates how microbrands can innovate within constrained price categories, delivering watches with exceptional design details and finishing typically found in pieces costing several times more.
Behrens has established itself as a microbrand unafraid to explore bold design concepts while maintaining exceptional build quality. Their timepieces often feature unique complications and dial treatments rarely seen at their price point.
Featured Model: Behrens Original Revolution Planet Blue Dial Watch (BHR12G) – £1,450
This distinctive timepiece offers:
Behrens exemplifies how microbrands can deliver truly different design approaches compared to mainstream manufacturers, offering collectors something genuinely unique.
While Louis Erard has a longer history dating back to 1931, the brand’s recent collaborative approach with independent watchmakers places it in an interesting position between established brands and the microbrand ethos. Their collaborations with renowned independent watchmakers bring haute horlogerie design elements to more accessible price points.
Featured Model: Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Le Régulateur 39mm Watch – £3,995
This remarkable collaboration features:
The Louis Erard collaborations demonstrate how the lines between microbrands and independents continue to blur, creating fascinating horological opportunities for collectors.
Beyond subjective aesthetics, several objective measures help assess whether microbrands deliver genuine value:
Most microbrands utilise third-party movements from established manufacturers:
Swiss Movements:
Japanese Movements:
Chinese Movements:
The distinction between microbrands often lies not in the base calibre selection but in the level of regulation, finishing, and modification applied to these movements. Superior microbrands typically:
The best microbrands now match or exceed the movement finishing standards of mainstream entry-luxury brands despite their lower price points.
Microbrands often take design risks that larger brands cannot, resulting in genuinely distinctive timepieces. While major manufacturers must appeal to broad audiences and consider heritage constraints, microbrands can explore niche aesthetics and unique design languages.
For collectors tired of homogeneous offerings from major brands, microbrands offer refreshing originality and personality.
Most microbrands utilise proven third-party movements from manufacturers like Sellita, ETA, Miyota, and Seiko. While they typically don’t develop proprietary calibres, many microbrands carefully select, adjust, and decorate these movements to enhance performance and aesthetic appeal.
Some established microbrands have begun developing custom modules or modifications to base movements, further enhancing their technical credentials.
While most watches should be purchased primarily for enjoyment rather than investment, some microbrands have shown impressive value retention and appreciation. Limited editions from respected brands like Baltic, Halios, and Ming often sell above retail in the secondary market due to their limited production and growing collector followings.
However, unlike established luxury brands with decades of market presence, the long-term value trajectory for microbrands remains less predictable. We recommend buying pieces you genuinely appreciate rather than purely for investment purposes.
A legitimate concern when purchasing from younger companies is long-term support and parts availability. The best microbrands mitigate this by:
When purchasing from MVS Watches, we carefully select microbrands with proven track records for quality and customer support, minimising these concerns.
With hundreds of microbrands now operating globally, selecting the right watch can be overwhelming. Here are key considerations to guide your decision:
Research the brand’s history, customer reviews, and community reception. Reputable microbrands typically:
Assess whether the design offers something genuinely distinctive or merely repackages familiar elements:
Examine the specifications closely:
Consider whether the brand’s values and story resonate with you:
Evaluate the overall value proposition:
Purchasing directly from brand websites or authorised retailers like MVS Watches provides several advantages:
At MVS Watches, we carefully curate our microbrand selection, ensuring each piece meets our strict quality standards before reaching our customers.
The secondary market for microbrands has grown substantially, offering opportunities to acquire discontinued or sold-out models. When purchasing pre-owned:
Many microbrands launch through Kickstarter or similar platforms, offering early-bird pricing but requiring patience as production is completed. While this approach can offer value, it carries more risk than purchasing established models.
The microbrand segment continues to evolve rapidly, with several trends worth noting:
As successful microbrands mature, many are developing more in-house capabilities:
While new microbrands continue to emerge, we’re also seeing consolidation:
Rather than attempting to cover all bases, many microbrands are focusing on specific niches:
The most successful microbrands are deepening their community engagement:
While individual results vary, several factors influence value retention:
Brands like Baltic, Ming, and Kurono Tokyo have demonstrated strong secondary market performance, with limited editions often selling above retail. However, as with any watch purchase, buying primarily for enjoyment rather than investment remains the soundest approach.
“Best” depends on individual preferences, but several microbrands consistently receive acclaim for their quality and value:
At MVS Watches, we carefully select only the finest examples from these and other microbrands for our collection.
The comparison varies depending on price point and specific models, but generally:
Advantages of microbrands:
Advantages of established luxury brands:
The best microbrands produce watches of exceptional quality that rival or exceed established brands at similar price points. However, quality varies significantly across the category.
Factors that indicate quality microbrand watches include:
MVS Watches only offers microbrand watches that meet stringent quality standards, ensuring our customers receive exceptional timepieces regardless of brand size or heritage.
The rise of microbrand watches represents more than just a market trend—it reflects a fundamental shift in how many enthusiasts approach collecting. Rather than focusing solely on historical prestige or brand recognition, collectors increasingly value:
At MVS Watches, we’re proud to champion exceptional microbrands alongside established luxury manufacturers. Our curated selection represents the best of independent horology, offering our customers access to some of the most exciting timepieces in today’s market.
Whether you’re considering your first microbrand purchase or looking to add another distinctive piece to your collection, we invite you to explore our selection of Farer, Baltic, Furlan Marri, Behrens, and Louis Erard timepieces. Our specialists are always available to provide guidance based on your specific preferences and requirements.
Ultimately, the best watch is one that brings you joy when you wear it and today’s vibrant microbrand landscape offers more opportunities than ever to find timepieces that truly speak to your individual taste and values.
For those looking to deepen their understanding of the microbrand watch market, we recommend these authoritative resources:
At MVS Watches, we pride ourselves on providing expert knowledge alongside our curated collection of authenticated microbrand timepieces.
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