Exploring the World of Microbrand Watches
March 13, 2026
Discover microbrand watches from independent watchmakers including Baltic, MING, Kurono Tokyo and more in this guide to modern independent watch brands.
The watch industry has long been dominated by large Swiss manufacturers, but over the past decade a new wave of smaller independent brands has begun to reshape the landscape. These companies are commonly referred to as microbrand watch companies.
Unlike major watch houses producing hundreds of thousands of watches per year, microbrands tend to operate on a much smaller scale. Production runs are limited, designs are often more experimental, and the founders are frequently enthusiasts themselves rather than corporate executives.
For collectors, that combination can be incredibly appealing. Microbrand watches often offer distinctive design, strong specifications and a closer connection to the people behind the brand.At MVS Watches we regularly source interesting independent pieces from around the world. While the term “microbrand” covers a wide range of companies, the watches we currently stock tend to fall into three distinct categories.
Interest in microbrand watches has grown rapidly among UK collectors in recent years. Many enthusiasts are looking beyond the major Swiss brands and exploring independent watchmakers producing smaller runs of distinctive timepieces. From design-led brands such as Mr Jones Watches to enthusiast favourites like Baltic and MING, the microbrand scene now offers a huge variety of styles. For collectors in the UK, specialist retailers and independent brands have made it easier than ever to discover and buy microbrand watches without relying solely on large luxury watch houses.
Some microbrands stand apart not through traditional watchmaking heritage, but through bold design and creativity. These brands approach watchmaking as a form of artistic expression, producing watches that look completely different from anything offered by mainstream Swiss brands.
A perfect example is Mr Jones Watches, the London-based brand known for its imaginative dials and collaborations with artists and illustrators. Rather than focusing on conventional luxury aesthetics, Mr Jones Watches produces pieces that treat the dial as a canvas.
Another brand pushing design boundaries is Xeric. The company has built a reputation for experimenting with unusual ways of displaying time, including wandering hour complications and unconventional dial layouts that make their watches instantly recognisable.
Chinese independent brand Behrens also fits into this category, although their approach leans more towards mechanical experimentation. Their watches often feature unusual movements and display systems that challenge traditional ideas about how time should be presented.
These brands appeal to collectors who already own more traditional watches and want something different on the wrist. They demonstrate that microbrand watchmaking can be just as much about creativity as it is about heritage.
A second category of microbrand has emerged in recent years, built around serious watch enthusiasts and independent watchmakers who have developed strong reputations within the collector community.
Among the most respected names in this space is Kurono Tokyo, founded by Japanese master watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. Kurono was created to make Asaoka’s design language accessible to a wider audience, and the watches have quickly gained a loyal following among collectors.
Another highly regarded independent brand is MING, founded by photographer and watch designer Ming Thein. MING watches have become known for their distinctive case shapes, layered dials and limited production runs. Each release tends to sell out quickly, reflecting the strong demand among enthusiasts.
Chinese brand Atelier Wen has also attracted attention in recent years thanks to its focus on traditional Chinese craftsmanship. Their watches often feature beautifully executed guilloché dials and demonstrate how independent brands from the Far East are beginning to play a larger role in modern watchmaking.
These brands represent a new generation of independent watchmakers who combine thoughtful design with a deep understanding of horology.
The third category includes microbrands that focus on building robust tool watches inspired by classic dive and sports watch design.
French brand Baltic has become particularly well known among enthusiasts for its vintage-inspired dive watches and chronographs. Founded in Paris, Baltic quickly gained attention for producing affordable mechanical watches with strong vintage proportions. Models such as the Aquascaphe capture the proportions and aesthetic of mid-century dive watches while incorporating modern reliability.
Another brand operating in this space is Triton, a dive watch specialist with roots stretching back to the 1960s. Triton watches are designed with serious underwater use in mind, resulting in distinctive case designs and strong technical specifications.
Dutch brand MAEN rounds out this category with watches that blend Scandinavian design sensibility with Swiss manufacturing. The MAEN × IFL Manhattan Graffiti limited edition is a good example of how modern microbrands can combine traditional watchmaking with contemporary design collaborations.
For collectors who appreciate classic tool watches but want something less common than the typical Swiss options, these brands offer compelling alternatives.
The growing popularity of microbrand watches reflects a broader shift within the watch collecting community.
Many collectors are increasingly interested in brands that operate outside the traditional luxury watch industry. Microbrands often bring fresh ideas to design, experiment with unusual complications or materials, and maintain closer relationships with their customers.
Limited production numbers also play a role. Owning a watch produced in small quantities can feel more personal than wearing a model that exists in large numbers.
Perhaps most importantly, microbrands remind collectors that watchmaking is still a creative industry. Independent brands continue to explore new ideas and approaches that keep mechanical watches interesting.
At MVS Watches we regularly source interesting pieces from the world of independent watchmaking, ranging from artistic design-led brands to serious independent watchmakers and modern tool watch specialists.
You can explore our current selection of microbrand watches available at MVS Watches, where we feature pieces from brands such as Baltic, Behrens, Xeric, MAEN, Mr Jones Watches and more.
For collectors looking to move beyond the mainstream Swiss brands, microbrand watches offer an exciting alternative and a chance to discover something genuinely different.Many of these independent brands are now appearing at events such as British Watchmakers’ Day, where collectors can see the watches in person.
A microbrand watch is typically produced by a small independent company rather than a large established manufacturer. Microbrands often operate with limited production runs and focus on distinctive design, enthusiast communities and direct relationships with collectors.
Many microbrand watches offer excellent build quality. Most use reliable Swiss or Japanese movements and are produced in smaller quantities, allowing brands to focus on detail and design rather than mass production.
Collectors are often drawn to microbrands because they offer originality and limited production. Many microbrands experiment with new designs or complications that larger watch companies might avoid.
Popular microbrand watches often come from independent brands with strong design identity and limited production. Brands such as Kurono Tokyo, MING, Baltic and Atelier Wen have built strong reputations among collectors.
Microbrand watches are often sold directly by the brand, but collectors can also find them through specialist retailers. At MVS Watches we regularly source interesting independent watches from brands such as Baltic, Behrens, Xeric and Mr Jones Watches.
Discover microbrand watches from independent watchmakers including Baltic, MING, Kurono Tokyo and more in this guide to modern independent watch brands.
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