MVS WATCH WORLD ISSUE #14 | New Releases: Patek Philippe, Breguet, Spinnaker & Richard Mille

November

Patek Philippe Cubitus Watch Collection 5821/1A, 5821/1AR & 5822P

The easiest place to begin this month is with probably the most controversial release of 2024. The Cubitus is Patek’s first new collection in 25 years and with that length of time and the size of the brand any new release was going to be heavily scrutinized. Thierry Stern (owner and president of Patek Philippe) began this creation with two things. First the simple fact that 85% of watches sold in the world are round. Secondly, though he thinks the TAG Heuer Monaco is very cool, he found it too thick. So with that the idea of the Cubitus was to make a square watch, but thin. 

With three different pieces spearheading this new launch, there is a lot to quickly take in. First the similarities – all three pieces are 45mm with 30m water resistance and sapphire crystal exhibition casebacks. The platinum Cubitus model is fitted with the brand new Caliber 240 PS CI J LU and the dial combines instantaneous grand date, day and moon-phase indications. This all comes with a price tag of £75,690. Both the steel and steel & rose gold models are equipped with the Caliber 26‑330 S C and command a RRP of £35,330 and £52,480. Though these releases have been met with very little enthusiasm, the likelihood is very few of us would be able to obtain these models anyway. Maybe a Santos or Monaco might be a more obtainable alternative. However, check out the video below and visit the Patek Philippe website for more information and make up your own mind.

Breguet Classique Watches 5177 & 7787

The Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 timepieces embrace the timeless elegance of Breguet’s collection, combining the refinement of platinum and “Grand Feu” enamel with the precision of two reliable automatic movements: the Manufacture calibres 777 Q and 591 DRL. The 591 DRL calibre, beating at 4 Hz with 221 components, delivers a 38-hour power reserve, powered by a rhodium-plated 22-carat gold rotor decorated with hand-made “barley grain” guilloché. Notably, the movement’s moon-phase disc includes an added pinion for an accurate display of the lunar cycle, 29.5303498 days, closely matching the actual lunar revolution of 29.53058888 days, resulting in a minimal deviation of one day every 348.7 years.

The intense black “Grand Feu” enamel dials, known for their challenging craftsmanship, feature Breguet Arabic numerals and a powdered silver timer for subtle contrast, while the rhodium-plated “moon” tip Breguet hands add further distinction. True to 18th-century watchmaking traditions, Breguet’s secret signature is hidden on the dial (on the right of the centre for the 7787 and between the centre and 6 o’clock for the 5177) adding an element of authenticity to these exquisite creations. Lots more details can be found in the linked video and at the brand’s own website.

Spinnaker x Seconde/Seconde Fleuss 40 Automatic Phantom No App & Classic

Spinnaker has once again joined forces with Parisian watch artist Romaric André, founder of Seconde/Seconde/, for a bold Halloween collaboration that marries high horology with playful, eerie subversion. This limited release offers two ghostly variants just in time for the Halloween season, blending supernatural intrigue with avant-garde design. Seconde/Seconde/, known for transforming other brands’ watches into conversation-sparking works of art, takes inspiration from “no radiation” signs with the Phantom No Apparitions variant, where “escaped” ghosts haunt the bezel. While the Phantom Classic variant keeps the spirits contained within the dial.

Our personal favourite is the newer No App styling but they are both equally fun pieces and showcase what can be done within the world of microbrand watches. Both pieces are equipped with the ever-reliable Miyota 9039 movement. Both editions have already sold out on the Spinnaker website (as to be expected having launched around Halloween), but you can still explore their unique details online.

Richard Mille RM 65-01 McLaren W1 Watch

Limited to 500 pieces and inspired by McLaren’s most powerful, fastest, and most radical road car to date, the RM 65-01 McLaren W1 incorporates the car’s core design principles while being crafted to be highly practical for everyday use. Like previous models, the RM 65-01 McLaren was designed to capture the essence of the car through its shape, materials, and functionality, mirroring the character and innovative features of the automotive marvel. The RMAC4 calibre in the RM 65-01 is equipped with a cutting-edge split-seconds mechanism, expertly engineered by Richard Mille’s team to ensure unparalleled precision. By eliminating the regulator index and incorporating four adjustable weights on the balance, the movement allows for a more accurate and repeatable adjustment. Additionally, the RM 65-01 features an innovative variable-geometry rotor, specifically designed to optimize the winding efficiency. This unique Richard Mille design adapts the rewinding of the mainspring to the wearer’s activity level, ensuring optimal performance in both active and everyday settings.

The case is made of Carbon TPT®, a composite material exclusive to Richard Mille in watchmaking. Composed of layers of parallel carbon fiber filaments with a thickness of just 30 microns, each layer is impregnated with resin and woven at a 45° angle between layers on a specialized machine. Heated to 120°C under 6 bars of pressure, the material is then CNC-machined at Richard Mille’s case factory. Carbon TPT® enhances durability by improving the resistance to breaking stresses by 25% and reducing the occurrence of micro-cracks by 200%, showcasing a level of technical advancement that aligns with the car’s innovative engineering and high-performance standards. Read in a lot more detail at Richard Mille’s website.

Timepiece of the Month

Breitling Emergency Orbiter 3 Limited Edition Watch E56321

The Breitling Emergency Orbiter 3 Limited Edition Watch E56321 commemorates the first non-stop balloon flight around the world, achieved in the Breitling-sponsored Orbiter 3. Limited to 1999 pieces, this watch has been crafted in titanium and features a blue dial. As an instrument watch, the Breitling Emergency includes a built-in microtransmitter broadcasting on the aircraft emergency frequency. It complements an aircraft’s distress signal, broadcasting for 48 hours when the antenna is at full extension. Its signal range covers approximately 100 miles over flat terrain or calm seas. Despite the 121.5 mHz frequency no longer being monitored by satellites, it remains an effective locator beacon and distress signal once a person has been reported missing. Breitling highly recommends servicing the Emergency every two years for professional use.

Available Now

Available now at MVS Watches, the Breitling Emergency watch comes with the complete box set. Including a signed certificate and a B-shaped piece of shiny Mylar from the skin of the globe-circling Orbiter 3 balloon. Presenting the watch is a large plastic briefcase with the inscription “Warning: For Aeronautical Use Only,”. While also containing a thick manual, video tape and a small radio receiver for testing the beacon’s operation. Enjoy free UK delivery at checkout. Explore below for more details: