£4,995.00
In stock
The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 with salmon dial represents a sophisticated evolution of one of horology’s most timeless designs, introducing a refined colour that transforms this classic dress watch into something truly exceptional. The warm salmon hue emerges particularly beautifully against the reduced Portugieser design, creating an eye catching presence that distinguishes this reference from the traditional silver and black dial variants. At 40.4mm, this Portugieser strikes the perfect balance between the collection’s historically larger proportions and contemporary preferences for versatile sizing, making it equally suitable for formal occasions and daily wear.
Powered by IWC’s manufacture Calibre 82200 with Pellaton automatic winding system, this exceptional timepiece delivers 60 hours of power reserve through components crafted from virtually non wearing ceramic materials. The movement visible through the sapphire caseback showcases traditional Côtes de Genève and perlage decoration, demonstrating IWC’s commitment to aesthetic excellence alongside technical innovation. The black alligator leather strap with butterfly folding clasp provides luxurious comfort while complementing the salmon dial’s warmth, creating a harmonious composition that exemplifies refined taste.
Condition: Excellent condition
Includes: Complete box set
Guarantee: Warranty valid until 2031
Shipping: Free UK delivery
The Portugieser story began in the late 1930s when two Portuguese businessmen approached IWC requesting wristwatch precision matching pocket watch standards. Their solution, Reference 325, housed a pocket watch movement in an oversized wristwatch case, establishing design codes that would define the Portugieser family for generations: clean dials with Arabic numerals, railway track minute scales, and small seconds subdials creating perfect symmetry. This marriage of pocket watch aesthetics with wristwatch convenience created an entirely new category of dress watches.
The modern Portugieser Automatic 40 continues this legacy while incorporating contemporary refinements that enhance wearability without compromising the essential character. The reduction to 40.4mm from traditional 42-44mm sizing acknowledges changing preferences while maintaining the dial proportions that give Portugieser models their distinctive presence. The salmon dial represents a bold yet tasteful evolution, offering collectors an alternative to conventional colours while maintaining the understated elegance that defines IWC’s design philosophy.
The Calibre 82200 exemplifies IWC’s modern manufacturing capabilities, utilising the efficient Pellaton winding system with ceramic components that essentially eliminate wear in critical areas. This technical advancement ensures these modern Portugiesers will maintain precision for decades, living up to the reliability standards established by those original pocket watch movements while offering convenience impossible in the 1930s.
The salmon dial represents one of the rarest and most sought after variations in modern IWC production, offering sophisticated alternative to conventional silver, black, or blue options. This warm hue sits between pink and orange, creating different appearances under varying lighting conditions from subtle rose gold tones in soft light to vibrant copper in direct sunlight. The colour’s complexity adds visual interest while maintaining the restraint expected from dress watches.
The sunray finishing amplifies the dial’s dynamic character, with brushed rays emanating from the centre creating subtle texture that catches light differently as viewing angles change. This interaction between the salmon base colour and sunray pattern produces depth typically associated with more elaborate dials while maintaining the clean aesthetic essential to Portugieser design. The rarity of salmon dials in IWC’s catalogue ensures this reference will remain distinctive among collectors who value uncommon variations.
IWC’s Pellaton automatic winding system represents one of horology’s most efficient self winding mechanisms, utilising both directions of rotor movement to wind the mainspring through an ingenious pawl system. Unlike traditional systems that only wind in one direction or lose efficiency through reversing gears, the Pellaton system captures energy from every wrist movement, ensuring consistent power generation even for less active wearers.
The incorporation of ceramic components in critical wear points essentially eliminates the system’s primary weakness traditional Pellaton systems could wear over decades of use. These ceramic parts maintain precise tolerances indefinitely, ensuring the winding efficiency remains constant throughout the movement’s lifetime. Combined with the 60 hour power reserve, this creates exceptional autonomy that allows the watch to maintain operation through entire weekends without wear, addressing a common frustration with shorter reserve movements.
The 40.4mm diameter represents IWC’s recognition that classic proportions can be maintained in more wearable sizes, addressing the market shift away from oversized watches without compromising Portugieser character. This sizing suits a broader range of wrist sizes while maintaining sufficient dial real estate for the characteristic Arabic numerals and railway minute track. The reduced diameter also enhances versatility, allowing the watch to slip easily under shirt cuffs for professional wear.
The proportional relationship between case diameter and 12.3mm thickness creates elegant profile that wears lighter than specifications suggest. Many collectors find 40mm provides ideal balance between presence and discretion, substantial enough to appreciate the dial details while avoiding the attention grabbing nature of larger pieces. This sizing also tends to maintain stronger value retention as market preferences continue evolving toward moderate dimensions.
IWC’s transition to manufacture movements represents significant evolution from their historical use of modified third party calibres, demonstrating technical independence and quality control throughout production. The Calibre 82200 showcases IWC’s engineering philosophy prioritising robustness and efficiency over unnecessary complexity, delivering essential functions with exceptional reliability. The movement’s architecture facilitates straightforward servicing while maintaining precision expected from Swiss luxury watchmaking.
The decoration visible through the display caseback follows traditional Swiss standards with Côtes de Genève and perlage, though IWC prioritises functional finishing over purely decorative elements. This approach reflects the brand’s tool watch heritage even in dress pieces, ensuring movements that perform reliably rather than simply impressing through ornate decoration. The seven day power reserve capability designed into the architecture, though regulated to 60 hours, demonstrates the inherent efficiency of IWC’s modern calibres.
The convex (domed) sapphire crystal creates subtle vintage character while serving practical purposes, with the curved profile reducing reflections compared to flat crystals. This shaping causes light to bend away from direct viewing angles, improving dial visibility throughout the day. The curvature also creates slight magnification at the crystal edges, enhancing the perceived dial size and creating more dynamic visual presence.
The anti reflective coating applied to both surfaces virtually eliminates reflections, crucial for appreciating the salmon dial’s subtle colour variations. This double coating represents premium execution, as many manufacturers only coat the interior surface. The convex profile also strengthens the crystal structurally, distributing pressure more evenly than flat surfaces. Combined with the vintage aesthetic benefits, this functional enhancement demonstrates how traditional design elements often emerged from practical considerations.
The Portugieser Automatic 40 epitomises dress watch ideals through its combination of refined proportions, subtle complexity, and impeccable finishing that commands respect without demanding attention. The clean dial layout with just hours, minutes, and small seconds creates uncluttered appearance appropriate for formal settings, while the salmon colour adds personality within acceptable bounds of conservative dress codes. The 12.3mm thickness slides effortlessly under tailored shirt cuffs.
The black alligator strap with butterfly clasp provides appropriate formality while ensuring comfort during extended wear, important for events where watches remain visible. The movement’s reliability means never worrying about accuracy during important occasions, while the anti-magnetic properties protect against interference from modern electronics. This combination of aesthetic refinement, technical capability, and practical wearability creates a dress watch that enhances rather than distracts from formal attire while remaining suitable for daily professional wear.
For any purchases online, we offer a 14 day refund as long as they are returned exactly as sold. Any purchases in person are final.
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