The TUDOR Black Bay 58 Burgundy is one of the world’s most iconic diving timepieces. Having been inspired by a prototype TUDOR Submariner ref. 79190 developed in the ’90s that never saw production, this striking timepiece is an impressive representation of the brand’s naval heritage. Presented on a five-link stainless steel bracelet, this 39mm Black Bay in stainless steel features a domed sapphire crystal and a unidirectional rotating bezel with burgundy anodised aluminium insert.
Certified as both COSC and METAS Master Chronometer, it also includes a rich burgundy dial with subtle curved numerals, the iconic “snowflake” hands and applied hour markers with luminous material. The watch is driven by the TUDOR Manufacture Calibre MT5400-U, which ensures exceptional accuracy of 0/+5 seconds per day, outstanding magnetic resistance, and a substantial 65-hour power reserve.
Condition: Unworn, pre-owned condition
Includes: Complete set
Guarantee: Warranty valid until 2030
Shipping: Free UK delivery
Black Bay 58 Burgundy Key Features
Heritage-Inspired Design
- Exquisite burgundy bezel and dial drawn from a prototype TUDOR Submariner that never reached production
- Compact 39mm case size paying homage to the vintage TUDOR diving watches of the 1950s
- Iconic “snowflake” hands first introduced in 1969 for enhanced underwater legibility
- Domed dial with applied hour markers creating exceptional depth and dimension
- Subtle curved numerals aligning with the outline of the outer ring
- Unidirectional rotating bezel with prehensile sides for confident grip
- Perfect proportions reminiscent of vintage diving watches with modern execution
METAS Master Chronometer Excellence
- Dual certification with both COSC and METAS Master Chronometer standards
- Extraordinary precision guaranteed at 0/+5 seconds per day
- Exceptional resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss
- Comprehensive testing covering precision, magnetic resistance, waterproofness and power reserve
- Independent verification by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology
- Represents the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking performance standards
- Each watch individually tested and certified to meet these exacting requirements
Technical Mastery
- TUDOR Manufacture Calibre MT5400-U self-winding mechanical movement
- Developed specifically for the more compact Black Bay 58 models
- Silicon balance spring providing superior resistance to magnetic fields
- Free-sprung balance with micro-adjustment screws for stable timekeeping
- Bidirectional winding system for efficient power generation
- Impressive 65-hour power reserve for reliable weekend-off wear
- Precision-engineered components manufactured to exacting standards
Professional Specifications
- Water resistance to 200 metres (660 feet) for genuine diving capability
- Five-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finishes
- TUDOR “T-fit” clasp with fine adjustment system
- Slender 11.7mm case thickness balancing presence with comfort
- Stainless steel screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief
- Domed sapphire crystal providing excellent clarity and scratch resistance
- Compact 39mm diameter perfectly suited to a wide range of wrist sizes
The Tudor Heritage
This new edition of the Black Bay 58 Burgundy retains all the core design elements from TUDOR throughout the ages and includes aesthetic notes from a prototype TUDOR Submariner ref. 79190 developed in the ’90s. The watch boasted a brilliant burgundy dial with a matching bezel but never saw production. This design now lives on in the form of the brand-new Black Bay 58 Burgundy. The burgundy unidirectional rotatable bezel offers very prehensible sides, and its insert shows subtly curved numerals aligning with the outline of the outer ring. This exceptional timepiece combines TUDOR’s historical diving watch aesthetics with state-of-the-art METAS Master Chronometer certification, demonstrating the brand’s commitment to both heritage and cutting-edge watchmaking excellence.
Perfect For
- Diving enthusiasts appreciating both technical capability and distinctive aesthetics
- Watch collectors seeking a perfectly proportioned modern dive watch with vintage appeal
- Connoisseurs of fine watchmaking who value both COSC and METAS certifications
- Those who appreciate unique colour variations with historical significance
- Individuals requiring a versatile timepiece suitable for both professional and formal settings
- Admirers of TUDOR’s naval heritage and diving watch expertise
- Those with smaller wrists seeking a perfectly proportioned premium diving watch
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is the burgundy colour so significant in TUDOR’s history?
The rich burgundy hue of this Black Bay 58 connects directly to a fascinating piece of TUDOR’s hidden heritage. In the 1990s, TUDOR developed a prototype Submariner reference 79190 featuring a distinctive burgundy dial and bezel combination. Despite being fully designed and prototyped, this striking variation never reached production, becoming something of a phantom reference known only to the most dedicated TUDOR historians and collectors.
This unreleased design has achieved almost mythical status among enthusiasts, representing a ‘what could have been’ moment in the brand’s history. By reviving this precise colour scheme in the Black Bay 58, TUDOR has brought to life a chapter from their archives that most never had the opportunity to experience. The depth and richness of this particular shade of burgundy creates a sophisticated alternative to the more common black and blue diving watch bezels, offering a distinctive character whilst maintaining the tool watch credibility central to TUDOR’s identity.
What makes this historical connection particularly special is how it demonstrates TUDOR’s thoughtful approach to their heritage, not simply reissuing famous models from their back catalogue, but also exploring paths not taken and design directions that represent interesting moments in their development. For collectors, this burgundy colour scheme represents not just an attractive aesthetic choice, but a tangible connection to TUDOR’s design history that few were previously able to appreciate.
What makes the 39mm case size so special for a modern dive watch?
The 39mm diameter of the Black Bay 58 represents a particularly thoughtful approach to contemporary watch design, one that honours historical proportions while acknowledging modern preferences. This case size directly references the dimensions of mid-century TUDOR diving watches, which typically measured between 37mm and 39mm. During this golden age of tool watch development, cases were sized for practical functionality rather than statement-making presence.
In today’s market, this 39mm case offers several distinct advantages. For those with smaller or medium wrists (approximately 6.25″ to 7.25″), it provides perfect proportionality that many larger modern divers cannot achieve. The 47mm lug-to-lug measurement ensures the watch sits entirely atop most wrists without uncomfortable overhang, while the modest 11.7mm thickness allows it to slide easily under cuffs, a rare quality in diving watches that often exceed 14mm in height.
Beyond pure ergonomics, this sizing creates a distinctly different wearing experience from larger contemporaries. The Black Bay 58 balances wrist presence with restraint, feeling substantial without dominating the wrist. This versatility allows it to transition seamlessly between environments, from business attire to casual settings, in a way that larger diving watches simply cannot achieve. For many enthusiasts, this modestly sized case represents the perfect modern interpretation of vintage proportions, offering historical authenticity with everyday wearability that larger homages often sacrifice.
How does the double certification of COSC and METAS benefit the owner?
The dual certification of both COSC and METAS represents an exceptional commitment to chronometric excellence rarely seen at this price point. While either certification alone would be noteworthy, the combination creates a level of performance assurance that transforms the ownership experience in several meaningful ways.
The journey begins with COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) testing, where the movement alone undergoes a 15-day evaluation in five positions and three temperatures. To earn this certification, the movement must maintain an average daily rate between -4 and +6 seconds, already a demanding standard that many luxury watches never achieve. However, TUDOR doesn’t stop there.
After COSC certification, the fully cased watch undergoes the even more rigorous METAS Master Chronometer testing. This comprehensive eight-part examination evaluates the complete watch under real-world conditions, including exposure to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss—approximately 30 times stronger than a refrigerator magnet and far exceeding the fields encountered in everyday life. Most impressively, the METAS standard requires accuracy between 0 and +5 seconds per day, tighter even than COSC requirements, and verifies this precision after exposure to these powerful magnetic fields.
For owners, this double certification translates to extraordinary real-world performance. Your watch will maintain consistent accuracy regardless of how it’s worn, which position it rests in overnight, or exposure to electronic devices. This reliable precision eliminates the need for regular time adjustments that lesser watches might require, creating a genuinely “set and forget” experience rarely found outside much higher price points. Perhaps most meaningfully, these independent certifications provide objective verification of performance claims, offering genuine confidence rather than marketing promises.
What technical advancements make the MT5400-U movement special?
The Manufacture Calibre MT5400-U represents TUDOR’s technical independence and commitment to advanced engineering specifically adapted for the more compact Black Bay 58 line. While sharing architectural DNA with other in-house TUDOR movements, this calibre has been specially designed and sized to fit perfectly within the slimmer case while maintaining exceptional performance specifications.
At the heart of the movement lies its variable-inertia balance secured by a traversing bridge. Unlike more common balance cock designs found in many Swiss movements, this robust two-point fixation system provides superior stability during active use, maintaining consistent timekeeping regardless of the shocks and position changes inevitable during daily wear. The free-sprung balance with micro-adjustment screws allows for precise regulation that remains stable over time without relying on a regulator index that can shift during impacts.
The silicon balance spring represents a significant technological advancement over traditional metal springs. Silicon is completely anti-magnetic, unaffected by temperature fluctuations, and impervious to corrosion, eliminating three major factors that compromise timing precision in conventional movements. This material choice directly contributes to the watch’s ability to maintain accuracy even when exposed to the powerful magnetic fields in the METAS testing protocol.
Perhaps most appreciable in daily use is the impressive 65-hour power reserve, approximately 50% longer than typical automatic movements. This extended autonomy means the watch can be removed on Friday evening and still be running accurately on Monday morning, eliminating the common ritual of setting and winding after weekend non-wear. For collectors who rotate between several timepieces, this feature proves particularly valuable, allowing more spontaneous wear without the inconvenience of resetting.
How does the Black Bay 58 Burgundy compare to vintage TUDOR Submariners?
The Black Bay 58 Burgundy creates a fascinating dialogue between TUDOR’s heritage and modern capabilities, offering both tangible connections to vintage Submariners and thoughtful contemporary enhancements. The most immediate visual parallel lies in the overall case architecture and proportions, with the 39mm diameter closely matching the 37-39mm cases typical of vintage references from the 1950s through 1970s. The distinctive bevelled lugs, domed crystal, and tall bezel profile directly reference these historical models, creating an immediately recognisable silhouette.
The iconic “snowflake” hands represent perhaps the most distinctive connection to TUDOR’s past. First introduced in 1969 to meet French Navy requirements for enhanced underwater legibility, these angular hands with their square hour tip and diamond-shaped seconds hand have become a defining characteristic of TUDOR’s diving heritage. Their inclusion in the Black Bay 58 maintains direct lineage to the brand’s naval provenance.
Where the Black Bay 58 departs from its ancestors is in materials and manufacturing precision. The sapphire crystal provides superior scratch resistance compared to the acrylic crystals of vintage models. The ceramic ball bearings in the bezel mechanism offer a precisely defined click action with zero back-play, a refinement that vintage bezels with their friction-fit designs could never achieve. The bracelet represents perhaps the most dramatic evolution, with solid links, screwed pins, and a sophisticated clasp mechanism providing security and comfort unimaginable in the folded-link bracelets of historical references.
Most significantly, the movement technology vastly outperforms anything available in vintage models. The MT5400-U’s silicon components, extended power reserve, and certified accuracy would have been science fiction to watchmakers of the mid-20th century. This combination of faithful aesthetic adherence with thoroughly modern technical specifications creates a timepiece that offers the best of both eras, vintage charm without vintage compromises.
What makes the “T-fit” clasp system revolutionary for daily wear?
The “T-fit” clasp system represents one of those seemingly minor innovations that fundamentally transforms the everyday wearing experience. While most casual observers might not notice this feature, its practical benefits quickly become apparent during regular use. Unlike traditional clasps that maintain fixed bracelet length, the “T-fit” system enables on-the-fly micro-adjustments without tools or removing the watch from your wrist.
This capability proves invaluable throughout normal daily activities as your wrist naturally expands and contracts with temperature changes, activity levels, and fluid retention. During morning commutes in warmer months, you might find your wrist expanding slightly, a few quick adjustments of the “T-fit” system restores perfect comfort without the loose feeling of a deliberately oversized bracelet. Similarly, in air-conditioned offices where wrists often contract slightly, the bracelet can be subtly tightened to prevent unwanted movement.
The engineering behind this system reflects TUDOR’s attention to long-term reliability. The ceramic ball bearings used in the adjustment mechanism ensure smooth operation while simultaneously reducing metal-on-metal wear that might develop play or looseness over time. The positive engagement points provide tactile feedback when adjustments are made, allowing changes even without looking at the clasp itself.
Perhaps most significantly, this system eliminates the traditional compromise between comfort and security that fixed-length bracelets impose. Rather than choosing between a bracelet sized for your largest wrist dimension (often resulting in excessive movement) or your smallest (potentially creating discomfort during expansion), the “T-fit” system allows your Black Bay 58 Burgundy to adapt to your conditions throughout the day. This thoughtful engineering solution demonstrates how TUDOR approaches every aspect of their timepieces with practical wearability as a primary consideration rather than merely focusing on technical specifications or aesthetic details.
