The TUDOR Black Bay 58 Burgundy is one of the world’s most iconic diving timepieces. Having been inspired by a prototype TUDOR Submariner ref. 79190 developed in the ’90s that never saw production, this striking timepiece is an impressive representation of the brand’s naval heritage, bringing to life a fascinating chapter from TUDOR’s archives that most never had the opportunity to experience.
Presented on a five-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finishes, this perfectly proportioned 39mm Black Bay in stainless steel features a domed sapphire crystal and a unidirectional rotating bezel with burgundy anodised aluminium insert. Certified as both COSC and METAS Master Chronometer, it showcases a rich burgundy dial with subtle curved numerals, the iconic “snowflake” hands and applied hour markers with luminous material, powered by the exceptional TUDOR Manufacture Calibre MT5400-U.
Condition: Unworn, pre-owned condition
Includes: Complete set still stickered
Guarantee: Warranty valid until 2030
Shipping: Free UK delivery
This exceptional edition of the Black Bay 58 Burgundy retains all the core design elements from TUDOR throughout the ages while incorporating aesthetic notes from a prototype TUDOR Submariner ref. 79190 developed in the 1990s. The watch featured a brilliant burgundy dial with matching bezel but never saw production, becoming something of a phantom reference known only to the most dedicated TUDOR historians and collectors.
This design now lives on in the form of the Black Bay 58 Burgundy, bringing to life a chapter from TUDOR’s archives that represents a ‘what could have been’ moment in the brand’s history. The burgundy unidirectional rotatable bezel offers exceptional grip, while its insert displays subtly curved numerals aligning with the outline of the outer ring. This exceptional timepiece combines TUDOR’s historical diving watch aesthetics with state-of-the-art METAS Master Chronometer certification, demonstrating the brand’s commitment to both heritage and cutting-edge watchmaking excellence.
The rich burgundy hue of this Black Bay 58 connects directly to a fascinating piece of TUDOR’s hidden heritage. In the 1990s, TUDOR developed a prototype Submariner reference 79190 featuring a distinctive burgundy dial and bezel combination. Despite being fully designed and prototyped, this striking variation never reached production, becoming something of a phantom reference known only to the most dedicated TUDOR historians and collectors.
This unreleased design has achieved almost mythical status among enthusiasts, representing a ‘what could have been’ moment in the brand’s history. By reviving this precise colour scheme in the Black Bay 58, TUDOR has brought to life a chapter from their archives that most never had the opportunity to experience. The depth and richness of this particular shade of burgundy creates a sophisticated alternative to the more common black and blue diving watch bezels, offering distinctive character whilst maintaining the tool watch credibility central to TUDOR’s identity.
The 39mm diameter of the Black Bay 58 represents a particularly thoughtful approach to contemporary watch design, one that honours historical proportions while acknowledging modern preferences. This case size directly references the dimensions of mid-century TUDOR diving watches, which typically measured between 37mm and 39mm. During this golden age of tool watch development, cases were sized for practical functionality rather than statement-making presence.
In today’s market, this 39mm case offers several distinct advantages. For those with smaller or medium wrists (approximately 6.25″ to 7.25″), it provides perfect proportionality that many larger modern divers cannot achieve. The 47mm lug-to-lug measurement ensures the watch sits entirely atop most wrists without uncomfortable overhang, while the modest 11.7mm thickness allows it to slide easily under cuffs. This versatility allows it to transition seamlessly between environments, from business attire to casual settings, in a way that larger diving watches simply cannot achieve.
The dual certification of both COSC and METAS represents an exceptional commitment to chronometric excellence rarely seen at this price point. The journey begins with COSC testing, where the movement alone undergoes a 15-day evaluation in five positions and three temperatures. To earn this certification, the movement must maintain an average daily rate between -4 and +6 seconds, already a demanding standard that many luxury watches never achieve.
After COSC certification, the fully cased watch undergoes the even more rigorous METAS Master Chronometer testing. This comprehensive eight-part examination evaluates the complete watch under real-world conditions, including exposure to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Most impressively, the METAS standard requires accuracy between 0 and +5 seconds per day, tighter even than COSC requirements. For owners, this double certification translates to extraordinary real-world performance, eliminating the need for regular time adjustments and creating a genuinely “set and forget” experience rarely found outside much higher price points.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5400-U represents TUDOR’s technical independence and commitment to advanced engineering specifically adapted for the more compact Black Bay 58 line. At the heart of the movement lies its variable-inertia balance secured by a traversing bridge, providing superior stability during active use compared to more common balance cock designs found in many Swiss movements.
The silicon balance spring represents a significant technological advancement over traditional metal springs. Silicon is completely anti-magnetic, unaffected by temperature fluctuations, and impervious to corrosion, eliminating three major factors that compromise timing precision in conventional movements. This material choice directly contributes to the watch’s ability to maintain accuracy even when exposed to powerful magnetic fields. Perhaps most appreciable in daily use is the impressive 65-hour power reserve, approximately 50% longer than typical automatic movements, meaning the watch can be removed on Friday evening and still be running accurately on Monday morning.
The Black Bay 58 Burgundy creates a fascinating dialogue between TUDOR’s heritage and modern capabilities, offering both tangible connections to vintage Submariners and thoughtful contemporary enhancements. The 39mm diameter closely matches the 37-39mm cases typical of vintage references from the 1950s through 1970s, while the distinctive bevelled lugs, domed crystal, and tall bezel profile directly reference these historical models.
The iconic “snowflake” hands represent perhaps the most distinctive connection to TUDOR’s past. First introduced in 1969 to meet French Navy requirements for enhanced underwater legibility, these angular hands have become a defining characteristic of TUDOR’s diving heritage. Where the Black Bay 58 departs from its ancestors is in materials and manufacturing precision, sapphire crystal instead of acrylic, ceramic ball bearings in the bezel mechanism, and most significantly, the MT5400-U movement technology that vastly outperforms anything available in vintage models. This combination creates a timepiece that offers the best of both eras: vintage charm without vintage compromises.
The “T-fit” clasp system represents one of those seemingly minor innovations that fundamentally transforms the everyday wearing experience. Unlike traditional clasps that maintain fixed bracelet length, the “T-fit” system enables on-the-fly micro-adjustments without tools or removing the watch from your wrist. This capability proves invaluable as your wrist naturally expands and contracts with temperature changes, activity levels, and fluid retention throughout normal daily activities.
The engineering behind this system reflects TUDOR’s attention to long-term reliability. The ceramic ball bearings used in the adjustment mechanism ensure smooth operation while reducing metal-on-metal wear that might develop play over time. Perhaps most significantly, this system eliminates the traditional compromise between comfort and security that fixed-length bracelets impose. Rather than choosing between a bracelet sized for your largest wrist dimension or your smallest, the “T-fit” system allows your Black Bay 58 Burgundy to adapt to your conditions throughout the day, demonstrating how TUDOR approaches every aspect of their timepieces with practical wearability as a primary consideration.
For any purchases online, we offer a 14 day refund as long as they are returned exactly as sold. Any purchases in person are final.
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