£2,800.00
In stock
The TUDOR Black Bay 58 39mm Watch represents one of the most significant achievements in modern diving watch design. Named after the year 1958 when TUDOR introduced their first divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres, this exceptional timepiece captures the characteristic proportions and aesthetic spirit of the 1950s while incorporating cutting-edge horological technology that defines contemporary watchmaking excellence.
Presented on a riveted steel bracelet with polished and satin finishes that pays homage to vintage diving watch construction, this perfectly proportioned 39mm Black Bay showcases a classic black domed dial with the iconic “snowflake” hands and applied hour markers. The combination of authentic vintage proportions with the advanced TUDOR Manufacture Calibre MT5402 creates a timepiece that honours the brand’s distinguished diving heritage while delivering uncompromising modern performance.
Condition: Immaculate condition
Includes: Original box and papers
Warranty: Valid until 2030
Shipping: Free UK delivery
The Black Bay 58 represents a watershed moment in modern diving watch design, successfully bridging the gap between historical authenticity and contemporary performance expectations. Named after 1958, the year TUDOR introduced their first divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres, this model captures the essential DNA of mid-century tool watches while incorporating advanced horological technology that would have been inconceivable to watchmakers of that era.
Among the most significant aesthetic allusions to TUDOR’s famous historic diving watches, this model features a 39mm diameter case that faithfully recreates the characteristic proportions of the 1950s, when diving watches were sized for practical functionality rather than statement-making presence. The riveted bracelet construction, domed crystal, and classic black dial with luminous markers create an authentic connection to the golden age of tool watch development, while the advanced MT5402 movement ensures reliability that exceeds anything available to the original diving pioneers.
The “58” in the Black Bay 58’s name refers to 1958, a pivotal year when TUDOR introduced their first divers’ watch capable of withstanding water pressure to 200 metres. This breakthrough represented a quantum leap in underwater timekeeping capability, as most watches of that era offered minimal water resistance unsuitable for serious diving applications. The 1958 model established TUDOR’s credibility in professional diving circles and laid the foundation for decades of naval and diving watch expertise.
This historical significance extends beyond mere technical achievement to encompass the cultural importance of diving watches in the late 1950s. As recreational scuba diving gained popularity and professional diving operations expanded, the demand for reliable underwater timepieces created an entirely new category of tool watches. TUDOR’s 1958 diving watch helped define the aesthetic and functional standards that continue to influence diving watch design today, making the “58” designation a tribute to this foundational moment in horological and diving history.
The 39mm diameter represents a deliberate return to the authentic proportions of 1950s diving watches, when cases were sized purely for functional considerations rather than contemporary preferences for larger timepieces. This dimension offers several practical advantages that modern diving watch enthusiasts have come to appreciate, particularly the ability to wear a substantial tool watch comfortably under diving suits, business attire, or casual clothing without the bulk associated with larger contemporary models.
The historical accuracy of this sizing creates an authentic wearing experience that connects modern users to the golden age of diving watch development. At 39mm with an 11.9mm thickness, the Black Bay 58 achieves perfect proportionality for wrists ranging from 6.5 to 7.5 inches, ensuring the watch sits comfortably within the wrist’s natural boundaries. This thoughtful sizing also enables the watch to transition seamlessly between professional diving applications and formal environments, versatility that larger modern diving watches often sacrifice for visual impact.
The TUDOR Manufacture Calibre MT5402 represents a significant advancement over conventional diving watch movements through its combination of extended power reserve, enhanced magnetic resistance, and certified chronometer accuracy. The 70-hour power reserve exceeds typical automatic movements by approximately 75%, ensuring the watch continues running through weekend non-wear periods and providing reliable timekeeping for extended diving expeditions where consistent time reference is crucial for safety.
The silicon balance spring technology incorporated in the MT5402 offers superior resistance to magnetic fields and temperature variations compared to traditional metal springs, addressing two primary factors that compromise timing accuracy in diving environments. COSC certification guarantees accuracy within -4/+6 seconds per day, precision that exceeds many luxury watches costing significantly more. This combination of reliability, accuracy, and extended power reserve transforms the Black Bay 58 from merely an aesthetically pleasing vintage tribute into a genuinely superior diving instrument.
The riveted bracelet construction directly references the building techniques used in classic diving watches of the 1950s and 1960s, when solid link bracelets were assembled using visible rivets rather than modern hidden pin systems. This construction method was chosen for its exceptional strength and reliability in demanding underwater environments, where bracelet failure could result in lost equipment or compromise diver safety.
While contemporary manufacturing could easily conceal these functional elements, TUDOR deliberately maintains the visible rivets as both aesthetic heritage and functional advantage. The riveted construction actually provides superior long-term durability compared to many modern bracelet systems, as the solid pins create incredibly strong connections that resist loosening even under extreme stress. The polished and satin finishing techniques applied to each rivet and link create sophisticated visual contrast while honouring the utilitarian origins that defined authentic tool watch construction.
The Black Bay 58‘s versatility stems from its thoughtful balance of authentic diving watch functionality with refined proportions and finishing that enable formal wear applications. The 39mm case size and 11.9mm thickness allow the watch to slide comfortably under dress shirt cuffs, while the classic black dial and polished case elements provide sufficient elegance for business and formal environments where more obviously sporty diving watches might appear inappropriate.
The genuine 200-metre water resistance and professional diving capabilities ensure the watch performs authentically in underwater environments, while the COSC-certified movement and premium construction materials provide the reliability and precision expected in luxury timepieces. The domed sapphire crystal and vintage-inspired proportions create timeless aesthetic appeal that transcends both diving tool and dress watch categories, making the Black Bay 58 an ideal choice for individuals seeking a single timepiece capable of serving diverse lifestyle requirements without compromise in either functionality or sophistication.
The Black Bay 58 distinguishes itself from other vintage-inspired diving watches through its genuine historical connection to TUDOR’s actual 1950s diving watch heritage, rather than simply borrowing aesthetic elements from generic vintage designs. The specific proportions, case architecture, and functional details derive directly from TUDOR’s archival research and the brand’s authentic naval instrument experience, creating legitimacy that many modern “vintage-inspired” designs cannot claim.
Where many contemporary vintage tributes prioritise nostalgic appearance over functional performance, the Black Bay 58 successfully integrates period-correct aesthetics with genuinely advanced horological technology. The MT5402 movement, silicon balance spring, and COSC certification provide performance capabilities that surpass most competitors while maintaining complete aesthetic fidelity to historical precedents. This combination of authentic heritage credentials with superior modern performance creates a diving watch that satisfies both serious collectors seeking historical accuracy and practical users requiring contemporary reliability, positioning the Black Bay 58 as the benchmark for how vintage-inspired watches should balance nostalgia with innovation.
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