The TUDOR Black Bay One 39 is one of the world’s most sophisticated timepieces. Having been developed as a new vision of the Black Bay line, this elegant watch is an impressive representation of the brand’s refined approach to classic design. Presented on a five-link stainless steel bracelet, this 39mm Black Bay One in stainless steel features a flat sapphire crystal and a fixed bezel with polished and satin finish.
The Black Bay One models bring a unique aesthetic to the Black Bay line. Their curved cases offer a language that slightly departs from the brand’s iconic tool watch spirit to embrace a sophisticated, versatile, unisex chic. The watch is driven by the TUDOR Manufacture Calibre MT5602, which powers the hours, minutes and seconds functions with COSC certification and an impressive 70-hour power reserve.
Condition: Immaculate pre-owned condition
Includes: Complete box set
Guarantee: Warranty valid until 2030
Shipping: Free UK delivery
Black Bay One 39 Key Features
Refined Aesthetic
- Elegant blue dial creating a sophisticated and versatile appearance
- Fixed stainless steel bezel with polished and satin finish
- Curved case design offering a distinctive departure from traditional tool watch styling
- Applied hour markers with luminous material for enhanced legibility
- Signature “snowflake” hands maintaining connection to TUDOR’s heritage
- Slim 12.0mm profile providing excellent comfort under cuffs
- Perfect proportions for both masculine and feminine wrists
Technical Excellence
- TUDOR Manufacture Calibre MT5602 self-winding mechanical movement
- COSC-certified chronometer ensuring precise timekeeping
- Silicon balance spring providing resistance to magnetic fields
- Free-sprung balance with micro-adjustment screws for stable timekeeping
- Bidirectional winding system for efficient power generation
- Impressive 70-hour power reserve for reliable weekend-off wear
- Non-magnetic components ensuring consistent performance
Versatile Construction
- Perfectly proportioned 39mm case balancing presence with comfort
- 100-metre water resistance (330 feet) for everyday practicality
- Five-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finishes
- TUDOR “T-fit” folding clasp with rapid adjustment system
- 21mm lug width maintaining proportional balance
- Stainless steel screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief
- Flat sapphire crystal providing excellent clarity
Contemporary Refinement
- Modern interpretation of timeless watch design principles
- Versatile aesthetic suitable for both casual and formal settings
- Distinctive blue dial complementing the stainless steel case
- Perfect balance between sportiness and elegance
- Robust construction ensuring reliable daily wear
- Integrated bracelet design flowing seamlessly from the case
- Clean, uncluttered dial layout for enhanced legibility
The Tudor Heritage
TUDOR presents a new version of its Black Bay line in steel with a fixed bezel. All fitted with Manufacture Calibres, the models come in four sizes (31mm, 36mm, 39mm and 41mm), with the 39mm offering perfect proportions for a wide range of wrist sizes. The Black Bay One models bring a unique aesthetic to the Black Bay line, with curved cases that offer a sophisticated, versatile, and unisex chic. This versatile approach combines elements of TUDOR’s heritage with contemporary design sensibility, creating a watch that transitions effortlessly between environments.
Perfect For
- Style-conscious individuals seeking a versatile everyday timepiece
- Watch enthusiasts appreciating the perfect balance between sport and dress aesthetics
- Professionals requiring a refined timepiece appropriate for business environments
- Those who value in-house movement technology with authentic heritage
- Individuals with medium wrists seeking ideal proportions
- Couples looking for complementary watches with unisex appeal
- Admirers of clean, timeless design with modern reliability
Frequently Asked Questions
What makes the 39mm size so perfectly versatile?
The 39mm diameter of the Black Bay One represents what many watch enthusiasts consider the “golden ratio” of case sizing, a dimension that achieves remarkable versatility across a wide range of wrist sizes and social contexts. This particular size has historical significance, echoing the proportions of mid-century dress watches whilst offering enough presence to satisfy contemporary tastes without overwhelming smaller wrists.
For individuals with wrist circumferences between 16-19cm (approximately 6.25-7.5 inches), the 39mm case sits perfectly centred, with the lugs staying within the flat portion of the wrist. This balanced positioning ensures both comfort and visual harmony. At just 12.0mm thick, the watch slides easily under shirt cuffs, a crucial consideration for business environments where a watch shouldn’t catch on clothing or appear overly bulky.
What truly distinguishes the 39mm size is its chameleon-like ability to adapt to different contexts. In business settings, it projects quiet confidence without ostentation; with casual attire, it maintains presence without dominating the overall look. This remarkable versatility is further enhanced by the fixed bezel design, which creates a more refined profile compared to the tool watch aesthetic of rotating bezel models.
The inclusion of this size within the Black Bay One range reflects TUDOR’s recognition that modern watch enthusiasts increasingly seek versatility rather than maintaining separate collections for different occasions. By carefully balancing proportions, the 39mm Black Bay One achieves that rare quality of being appropriate virtually anywhere, from boardroom to weekend adventures, making it the perfect choice for those who value flexibility in their timepiece.
How does the blue dial create such a distinctive character?
The blue dial of the Black Bay One 39 represents a masterclass in subtle sophistication, employing several carefully considered design elements to create a distinctive character that sets it apart from both competitors and other models within the TUDOR collection. Rather than opting for a vibrant or high-contrast blue, TUDOR has selected a restrained, deep navy hue that shifts fascinatingly under different lighting conditions.
In bright, direct illumination, the dial reveals subtle depth and texture, with almost imperceptible vertical brushing that creates gentle light play across its surface. As lighting dims, the dial appears to deepen almost to black, with the luminous markers and hands providing dramatic contrast. This chameleon-like quality means the watch presents differently throughout the day, providing visual interest that more static dials cannot match.
The satin-finished fixed bezel frames this blue expanse perfectly, creating a sophisticated contrast between the dial and case that emphasises the watch’s refined character. Applied hour markers with meticulously executed luminous infill demonstrate TUDOR’s attention to detail, each marker catches light differently as the wrist moves, creating micro-moments of brilliance that draw the eye.
Perhaps most importantly, this particular shade of blue straddles the divide between classic and contemporary perfectly. While blue dials have historical precedent in watchmaking, this specific execution feels thoroughly modern without being trendy or ephemeral. The result is a timepiece with a distinctive personality that nonetheless maintains versatility, the blue complementing virtually any wardrobe choice while providing more character than traditional black or white dials. For those seeking individuality without sacrificing versatility, this thoughtfully executed blue dial achieves a remarkable balance.
What advantages does the fixed bezel design offer?
The fixed bezel design of the Black Bay One 39 represents a thoughtful departure from TUDOR’s more tool-oriented divers, offering several distinct advantages that transform both the aesthetic and functional characteristics of the timepiece. Most immediately apparent is the sleeker, more refined profile, without the serrated or coin-edge grip necessary for rotating bezels, the watch presents a smoother silhouette that transitions more elegantly between case and bracelet.
From a practical perspective, the fixed bezel significantly reduces the overall height compared to diving models with rotating mechanisms. This slimmer profile allows the watch to slide effortlessly under shirt cuffs, making it substantially more comfortable for all-day wear in professional environments where a bulkier diver might prove awkward or inappropriate. The polished and satin finish of the bezel creates subtle light play that enhances the watch’s visual sophistication without resorting to excessive reflectivity or ornamentation.
The absence of a rotating timing scale also produces a cleaner, more focused aesthetic. Without external markings competing for attention, the dial becomes the undisputed visual centrepiece, allowing its colour, texture and applied markers to take precedence. This design choice shifts the watch decidedly toward the dress-sport category—versatile enough for active lifestyles while refined enough for formal occasions.
Perhaps most significantly for collectors, the fixed bezel creates a distinctive character within TUDOR’s lineup. While maintaining familiar Black Bay elements like the case shape and “snowflake” hands, this execution establishes a separate identity that complements rather than competes with the more tool-oriented models. This thoughtful differentiation allows enthusiasts to own multiple TUDOR pieces that serve distinct purposes rather than feeling redundant, a fixed bezel Black Bay One for business and formal occasions, perhaps paired with a diving-oriented Black Bay for weekends and vacations.
How does the “T-fit” clasp system enhance comfort?
The TUDOR “T-fit” clasp system represents one of those seemingly minor innovations that fundamentally transforms the everyday wearing experience. All Black Bay One models are available on a five-link bracelet in 316L steel that comes complete with a robust clasp in 316L steel with TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment system for on-the-fly size changes. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system allows the wearer to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of up to 8mm on the clasp.
Throughout a typical day, your wrist naturally expands and contracts due to temperature changes, activity levels, and fluid retention. Without adjustment capability, this can lead to a bracelet that feels uncomfortably tight in warm conditions or disconcertingly loose when cool. The “T-fit” system elegantly solves this problem by allowing immediate micro-adjustments without removing the watch or requiring special tools.
The engineering behind this system reflects TUDOR’s attention to long-term reliability. The five distinct positions provide clear, tactile feedback when engaged, while the robust construction ensures that the mechanism maintains its precision even after years of regular use. The 8mm total adjustment range has been carefully calculated to accommodate typical daily wrist size fluctuations without compromising the bracelet’s overall proportions or appearance.
For those who travel frequently between different climates, this feature proves particularly valuable. The same watch can be comfortably worn whether exploring humid tropical destinations or visiting cooler regions, without requiring bracelet link additions or removals. This adaptability transforms the Black Bay One 39 from merely a beautiful object into a genuinely practical companion for daily life, a thoughtful blend of aesthetic refinement and functional engineering that exemplifies TUDOR’s approach to modern watchmaking.
What sets the MT5602 movement apart from standard calibres?
The Manufacture Calibre MT5602 represents TUDOR’s commitment to technical independence and exceptional performance standards. Unlike sourced movements found in many watches at similar price points, this calibre was designed, developed, and manufactured entirely in-house, allowing TUDOR complete control over specifications and quality. This technical autonomy has enabled the incorporation of several sophisticated features that distinguish the MT5602 from standard movements.
Most immediately appreciable in daily use is the impressive 70-hour power reserve, significantly exceeding the 40-48 hours typical of many automatic calibres. This extended autonomy means your Black Bay One 39 can be removed on Friday evening and still be running accurately on Monday morning, eliminating the common ritual of setting and winding after weekend non-wear. For those who rotate between several timepieces, this feature proves particularly valuable, allowing more spontaneous wear without the inconvenience of resetting.
The silicon balance spring represents sophisticated material science that directly enhances performance. Unlike traditional metallic springs vulnerable to magnetism and temperature variations, silicon maintains consistent oscillation regardless of environmental challenges. This property, once found only in watches at significantly higher price points, ensures your Black Bay One 39 maintains precision despite exposure to everyday electronic devices that can affect conventional movements.
The architecture reveals thoughtful engineering focused on long-term reliability. The free-sprung balance with micro-adjustment screws allows precise regulation that remains stable over time, eliminating the positional variation that affects simpler movements. The bidirectional winding system maximises efficiency by generating power regardless of which direction the rotor turns, achieving full winding more rapidly than unidirectional systems.
Beyond these technical advantages, the MT5602 provides an intangible but meaningful connection to TUDOR’s watchmaking philosophy. This movement represents hundreds of hours of development, testing, and refinement specifically for the Black Bay collection, a dedicated approach that creates a more integrated, purposeful timepiece than would be possible with an adapted third-party calibre.
Why has the Black Bay One collection become so popular among enthusiasts?
The Black Bay One collection has rapidly established itself as a favourite among watch enthusiasts for several compelling reasons that transcend mere aesthetics or specifications. At its core, the collection represents a perfectly calibrated balance between opposing qualities that typically require compromise, heritage and innovation, sportiness and elegance, presence and wearability.
The curved cases offer a language that slightly departs from the brand’s iconic tool watch spirit to embrace a sophisticated, versatile, unisex chic. This subtle evolution maintains enough visual connection to TUDOR’s heritage to satisfy traditionalists while introducing refinements that appeal to those seeking more versatile timepieces. The range of four sizes (31mm, 36mm, 39mm and 41mm) acknowledges the diversity of modern watch enthusiasts, providing perfect proportions regardless of wrist size or stylistic preference.
The fixed bezel models in particular have garnered appreciation for their chameleon-like versatility. Without the more utilitarian rotating bezel, these watches transition seamlessly between environments, sophisticated enough for formal business settings yet robust enough for weekend activities. The blue dial variant adds further character without sacrificing versatility, providing subtle distinction without limiting wearability.
What truly distinguishes the collection among enthusiasts is its value proposition, offering manufacture movement technology, refined finishing, and thoughtful design at price points that remain accessible compared to many luxury alternatives. The inclusion of the “T-fit” adjustment system demonstrates TUDOR’s attention to practical wearability rather than merely focusing on technical specifications or marketing narratives.
Perhaps most significantly, the Black Bay One models have successfully carved out a distinct identity within TUDOR’s catalogue without abandoning the design language that made the brand successful. Rather than competing directly with their diving-oriented siblings, these watches complement them, allowing enthusiasts to own multiple TUDOR pieces that serve different purposes while maintaining a cohesive collection aesthetic. This thoughtful differentiation has created passionate advocates who appreciate the collection’s perfect balance between distinctive character and versatile wearability.
