£2,850.00 Original price was: £2,850.00.£2,650.00Current price is: £2,650.00.
In stock
The TUDOR Black Bay One 39 is one of the world’s most sophisticated timepieces. Having been developed as a new vision of the Black Bay line, this elegant watch is an impressive representation of the brand’s refined approach to classic design, combining elements of TUDOR’s heritage with contemporary design sensibility to create a watch that transitions effortlessly between environments.
Presented on a five-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finishes, this 39mm Black Bay One in stainless steel showcases a stunning deep blue dial with applied hour markers and TUDOR’s signature “snowflake” hands. The curved case design offers a distinctive departure from traditional tool watch styling, embracing a sophisticated, versatile, unisex chic that balances presence with exceptional comfort.
Condition: Immaculate pre-owned condition
Includes: Complete box set
Guarantee: Warranty valid until 2030
Shipping: Free UK delivery
TUDOR presents a new version of its Black Bay line in steel with a fixed bezel, representing a thoughtful evolution of the collection that has defined modern dive watch aesthetics. Available in four sizes (31mm, 36mm, 39mm and 41mm), with the 39mm offering perfect proportions for a wide range of wrist sizes, the Black Bay One models bring a unique aesthetic to the Black Bay line.
The curved cases offer a language that slightly departs from the brand’s iconic tool watch spirit to embrace a sophisticated, versatile, unisex chic. This versatile approach combines elements of TUDOR’s diving heritage with contemporary design sensibility, creating a watch that transitions effortlessly between environments while maintaining the robust construction and technical excellence that has made TUDOR synonymous with reliability and performance.
The 39mm diameter of the Black Bay One represents what many watch enthusiasts consider the “golden ratio” of case sizing, a dimension that achieves remarkable versatility across a wide range of wrist sizes and social contexts. This particular size has historical significance, echoing the proportions of mid-century dress watches whilst offering enough presence to satisfy contemporary tastes without overwhelming smaller wrists.
For individuals with wrist circumferences between 16-19cm (approximately 6.25-7.5 inches), the 39mm case sits perfectly centred, with the lugs staying within the flat portion of the wrist. This balanced positioning ensures both comfort and visual harmony. At just 12.0mm thick, the watch slides easily under shirt cuffs, a crucial consideration for business environments where a watch shouldn’t catch on clothing or appear overly bulky. The inclusion of this size within the Black Bay One range reflects TUDOR’s recognition that modern watch enthusiasts increasingly seek versatility rather than maintaining separate collections for different occasions.
The blue dial of the Black Bay One 39 represents a masterclass in subtle sophistication, employing several carefully considered design elements to create a distinctive character that sets it apart from both competitors and other models within the TUDOR collection. Rather than opting for a vibrant or high-contrast blue, TUDOR has selected a restrained, deep navy hue that shifts fascinatingly under different lighting conditions.
In bright, direct illumination, the dial reveals subtle depth and texture, with almost imperceptible vertical brushing that creates gentle light play across its surface. As lighting dims, the dial appears to deepen almost to black, with the luminous markers and hands providing dramatic contrast. This chameleon-like quality means the watch presents differently throughout the day, providing visual interest that more static dials cannot match. Perhaps most importantly, this particular shade of blue straddles the divide between classic and contemporary perfectly, providing more character than traditional black or white dials while maintaining complete versatility.
The fixed bezel design of the Black Bay One 39 represents a thoughtful departure from TUDOR’s more tool-oriented divers, offering several distinct advantages that transform both the aesthetic and functional characteristics of the timepiece. Most immediately apparent is the sleeker, more refined profile, without the serrated or coin-edge grip necessary for rotating bezels, the watch presents a smoother silhouette that transitions more elegantly between case and bracelet.
From a practical perspective, the fixed bezel significantly reduces the overall height compared to diving models with rotating mechanisms. This slimmer profile allows the watch to slide effortlessly under shirt cuffs, making it substantially more comfortable for all-day wear in professional environments. The absence of a rotating timing scale also produces a cleaner, more focused aesthetic, allowing the dial to become the undisputed visual centrepiece. This design choice creates a distinctive character within TUDOR’s lineup while maintaining familiar Black Bay elements, establishing a separate identity that complements rather than competes with the more tool-oriented models.
The TUDOR “T-fit” clasp system represents one of those seemingly minor innovations that fundamentally transforms the everyday wearing experience. This practical system allows the wearer to carry out fine, instant adjustment of up to 8mm on the clasp through five distinct positions, requiring no tools and providing immediate micro-adjustments without removing the watch.
Throughout a typical day, your wrist naturally expands and contracts due to temperature changes, activity levels, and fluid retention. Without adjustment capability, this can lead to a bracelet that feels uncomfortably tight in warm conditions or disconcertingly loose when cool. The “T-fit” system elegantly solves this problem while maintaining long-term reliability through robust construction and clear, tactile feedback when engaged. For those who travel frequently between different climates, this feature proves particularly valuable, transforming the Black Bay One 39 from merely a beautiful object into a genuinely practical companion for daily life.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5602 represents TUDOR’s commitment to technical independence and exceptional performance standards. Unlike sourced movements found in many watches at similar price points, this calibre was designed, developed, and manufactured entirely in-house, allowing TUDOR complete control over specifications and quality while incorporating several sophisticated features that distinguish the MT5602 from standard movements.
Most immediately appreciable in daily use is the impressive 70-hour power reserve, significantly exceeding the 40-48 hours typical of many automatic calibres. This extended autonomy means your Black Bay One 39 can be removed on Friday evening and still be running accurately on Monday morning. The silicon balance spring represents sophisticated material science that maintains consistent oscillation regardless of environmental challenges, ensuring precision despite exposure to everyday electronic devices. The free-sprung balance with micro-adjustment screws allows precise regulation that remains stable over time, while the bidirectional winding system maximises efficiency by generating power regardless of rotor direction.
The Black Bay One collection has rapidly established itself as a favourite among watch enthusiasts for several compelling reasons that transcend mere aesthetics or specifications. At its core, the collection represents a perfectly calibrated balance between opposing qualities that typically require compromise, heritage and innovation, sportiness and elegance, presence and wearability.
The curved cases offer a language that slightly departs from the brand’s iconic tool watch spirit to embrace sophisticated, versatile, unisex chic. This subtle evolution maintains enough visual connection to TUDOR’s heritage to satisfy traditionalists while introducing refinements that appeal to those seeking more versatile timepieces. The fixed bezel models in particular have garnered appreciation for their chameleon-like versatility, sophisticated enough for formal business settings yet robust enough for weekend activities. What truly distinguishes the collection is its value proposition, offering manufacture movement technology, refined finishing, and thoughtful design at accessible price points, while the Black Bay One models have successfully carved out a distinct identity that complements rather than competes with diving-oriented siblings.
For any purchases online, we offer a 14 day refund as long as they are returned exactly as sold. Any purchases in person are final.
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