Exploring the World of Microbrand Watches
March 13, 2026
Discover microbrand watches from independent watchmakers including Baltic, MING, Kurono Tokyo and more in this guide to modern independent watch brands.
A complete UK buyer’s guide to pre-owned Breitling watches, including the Navitimer, Chronomat, Superocean, Premier and Top Time collections.
Breitling built its reputation producing precision instruments for professionals. Pilots relied on the Navitimer’s circular slide rule. Divers trusted the depth ratings of the Superocean. Racing drivers wore the Chronomat. These were not decorative watches. They were tools designed to perform under pressure.
That heritage is exactly why Breitling remains one of the most compelling brands to buy on the pre-owned market.
Buying pre-owned gives access to discontinued references, stronger value compared with retail prices, and in some cases watches that are no longer produced at all. Many collectors actively seek earlier Breitling models for their design character and mechanical pedigree.
This guide explains the Breitling collections most commonly found on the UK pre-owned market, including the Navitimer, Chronomat, Super Chronomat, Superocean, Top Time and Premier. It also covers what buyers should check before purchasing and what price ranges to expect.
If you are exploring options, you can view our current selection of pre-owned Breitling watches to see how different references compare in price and condition.
Breitling’s modern catalogue centres around several core collections, each with a distinct purpose and design language. Understanding how these models differ makes it much easier to choose the right Breitling on the pre-owned market.
The Navitimer remains the brand’s most famous aviation watch. Instantly recognisable by its circular slide rule bezel, it has been closely associated with pilot culture since the 1950s.
The Chronomat represents Breitling’s most versatile sports chronograph. With its rider tab bezel and Rouleaux bracelet, it blends aviation heritage with everyday wearability.
The Super Chronomat takes the Chronomat concept and amplifies it. Larger case sizes, ceramic bezel options and bold dial colours give the watch a much stronger wrist presence.
The Superocean focuses on professional diving capability. High water resistance, strong lume and robust case construction make it one of Breitling’s most capable tool watches.
The Top Time provides a more relaxed chronograph design inspired by 1960s motorsport culture. Vintage styling and smaller case sizes make it a popular entry point into the brand.
Finally, the Premier collection represents Breitling’s more refined side. These chronographs emphasise cleaner dial layouts and classic proportions while still using the brand’s modern in-house movements.
Each of these collections appeals to a slightly different type of buyer, which is why the pre-owned market offers such a wide range of Breitling watches to explore.
The Navitimer is one of the most recognisable pilot watches ever produced.
Introduced in 1952 in partnership with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, it was designed as a genuine flight computer. The circular slide rule bezel allows pilots to calculate fuel consumption, speed, and rate of climb directly from the wrist. Before the era of digital avionics, this functionality made the Navitimer a serious cockpit instrument.
Modern Navitimer models are powered by Breitling’s in-house B01 chronograph movement. This COSC-certified calibre uses a column wheel and vertical clutch architecture and provides a 70 hour power reserve. The movement is widely regarded as one of the strongest modern chronograph calibres available in this price category.
Case sizes typically range from 41mm to 46mm depending on the reference, with a variety of dial colours and bracelet options available.
On the pre-owned market the Navitimer offers a wide spectrum of collecting opportunities. Vintage references such as the ref. 806 remain among the most desirable pilot chronographs ever made. Later references from the 1990s and early 2000s often represent excellent value, while modern B01 examples are highly reliable and easy to service.
The slide rule bezel is the most important element to inspect. Worn or faded markings can significantly reduce both value and collectability.
Check the condition of the pushers and crown, particularly on older models. Original bracelets or straps also add value. For modern B01 references, full box and papers including COSC documentation are desirable.
The Chronomat first appeared in 1942 as a technical chronograph with slide rule functionality. Its modern identity began in 1984 when Breitling redesigned the model in collaboration with the Frecce Tricolori aerobatic display team.
That redesign introduced the elements most collectors recognise today. A bold case, rider tab bezel, and the distinctive Rouleaux bracelet. The Chronomat quickly became one of the defining sports chronographs of the late twentieth century.
Today the Chronomat sits at the centre of Breitling’s lineup as the brand’s most versatile chronograph. The 42mm version in particular works well as an everyday luxury sports watch, balancing presence with wearability.
Most modern examples use the B01 in-house movement, while earlier models often used the Breitling 13 calibre. Water resistance of 200 metres adds practical durability for daily use.
On the pre-owned market, early Chronomat models from the 1980s and 1990s have developed a loyal collector following. Steel models on the Rouleaux bracelet are particularly popular, while two-tone examples often represent strong value.
The Rouleaux bracelet should be inspected carefully. Over time links can stretch or show uneven wear.
Ensure the bezel rider tabs are secure with no looseness. On two-tone models check for wear around case edges where gold plating or overlay may show signs of use.
The Super Chronomat represents the most powerful modern interpretation of the Chronomat design.
Introduced in 2020, the Super Chronomat builds on the architecture of the standard Chronomat but increases the scale and presence of the watch. Case sizes typically measure 44mm and the bezel rider tabs are noticeably larger, giving the watch a far more aggressive profile on the wrist.
Despite the increased size, the core design language remains consistent with the Chronomat lineage. The signature Rouleaux bracelet, raised rider tabs and strong case geometry all reference the original Frecce Tricolori inspired models from the 1980s.
Most Super Chronomat references are powered by Breitling’s in house B01 chronograph movement, delivering COSC certified accuracy and a 70 hour power reserve.
On the pre-owned market the Super Chronomat appeals to buyers who want the Chronomat aesthetic but with greater wrist presence. Ceramic bezel inserts, rubber Rouleaux straps and bold dial colours also give the model a more contemporary feel compared with earlier Chronomat generations.
Because of the larger case dimensions, polishing can soften the sharp lines of the bezel and case edges. Check that the rider tabs remain crisp and well defined.
If the watch is fitted with the rubber Rouleaux strap, ensure the clasp mechanism remains tight and that the strap has not stretched or degraded.
Breitling launched the Superocean in 1957 as its answer to the growing demand for professional dive watches.
Modern references offer water resistance ranging from 200 metres to as much as 2000 metres depending on the model. Unidirectional bezels, strong lume and highly legible dials make the watch suitable for real underwater use.
The Superocean Heritage line, introduced in 2007, takes clear design inspiration from the original 1957 watch. Cleaner dial layouts, vintage proportions and mesh bracelet options give the Heritage range a more relaxed aesthetic than the more technical Superocean Professional models.
For buyers looking for a capable dive watch with genuine brand history, the Superocean sits comfortably alongside competitors such as the TUDOR Pelagos and the OMEGA Seamaster.
If you plan to swim or dive with a pre-owned watch, water resistance should always be verified with a pressure test.
Check the bezel for smooth unidirectional rotation and inspect the crown tube and seals for corrosion. On Heritage models, examine the lugs for excessive polishing which can soften the original case lines.
The Top Time collection originally appeared in the 1960s as Breitling’s attempt to reach a younger audience. Compared with the brand’s professional aviation watches, the Top Time focused on sportier styling and more accessible chronographs.
Vintage Top Time models became particularly famous after appearing in the 1965 James Bond film Thunderball, where a modified version was worn by Sean Connery.
Breitling revived the collection in 2021 with a series of chronographs powered by the in-house B01 movement. These modern models retain the distinctive panda and reverse-panda dial layouts that defined the original watches while introducing contemporary case construction and finishing.
Several releases in the modern Top Time range draw inspiration from classic cars and motorcycles. Models such as the Top Time B01 Ford Mustang and Top Time B01 Chevrolet Corvette have proven particularly popular with collectors.
On the pre-owned market the Top Time offers a slightly more relaxed alternative to the Navitimer or Chronomat. The cleaner dial layout and smaller case sizes make it an appealing entry point for buyers who want a Breitling chronograph without the visual complexity of the Navitimer.
Check that the tachymeter scale and chronograph sub-dials remain crisp and clearly printed. Because Top Time watches are often worn casually, some examples may show polishing around the lugs or case edges.
Limited editions connected to automotive partnerships often attract stronger demand on the secondary market.
The Breitling Premier collection represents a more refined side of the brand. Originally introduced in the 1940s, the Premier line focused on elegant chronographs designed for everyday wear rather than purely professional use.
Modern Premier models continue that philosophy. Compared with the Navitimer or Chronomat, the Premier emphasises cleaner dial layouts, polished case finishing and more restrained proportions. Case sizes typically sit around 40–42mm, making the watches comfortable for daily wear in both casual and formal settings.
Many modern Premier models are powered by Breitling’s in-house B01 chronograph movement, including references such as the Premier B01 Chronograph 42 (Ref. AB0145). The B01 provides a 70 hour power reserve and COSC certified accuracy while maintaining the robust chronograph architecture found across Breitling’s flagship models.
Breitling has also produced Premier references using the B09 manual-wind chronograph movement, most notably the Premier B09 Chronograph 40 (Ref. AB0930). The B09 is derived from the B01 architecture but removes the automatic winding system, creating a thinner manual-wind chronograph that appeals strongly to enthusiasts who appreciate traditional watchmaking.
On the pre-owned market the Premier collection often appeals to buyers looking for a Breitling chronograph with a more understated aesthetic. For collectors who want the technical quality of the B01 movement without the larger tool-watch styling of the Navitimer or Chronomat, the Premier provides an excellent alternative.
Premier watches feature more polished surfaces than many other Breitling models, so careful inspection for over-polishing is important. Ensure the chronograph pushers operate smoothly and that the case lines remain crisp, particularly around the lugs.
Certain Breitling references appear consistently on the UK pre-owned market and remain popular among collectors.
Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 (Ref. AB0138)
One of the most common modern Navitimer references. Powered by the B01 movement and widely available in a variety of dial colours.
Chronomat B01 42 (Ref. AB0134)
A modern interpretation of the classic Chronomat design, featuring the signature Rouleaux bracelet and 200 metres of water resistance.
Super Chronomat B01 44 (Ref. AB0136)
The larger, more aggressive version of the Chronomat with ceramic bezel options and bold dial configurations.
Superocean Heritage II 42 (Ref. AB2010)
A vintage-inspired dive watch powered by the B20 automatic movement with a clean dial layout and mesh bracelet option.
Top Time B01 Ford Mustang (Ref. AB0176)
One of the most recognisable modern Top Time releases, combining the retro chronograph design with Breitling’s in-house movement.
Premier B01 Chronograph 42 (Ref. AB0145)
One of the most widely recognised Premier models. The watch combines a clean chronograph dial layout with the in-house B01 movement and a 42mm case, making it a strong choice for buyers who want Breitling chronograph engineering in a more refined design.
Premier B09 Chronograph 40 (Ref. AB0930)
A manual-wind chronograph powered by Breitling’s B09 calibre. Derived from the B01 architecture but without automatic winding, it offers a thinner case profile and appeals strongly to collectors who prefer traditional hand-wound chronographs.
These references provide a useful starting point for buyers exploring Breitling on the secondary market.
Introduced in 2009, the Breitling B01 movement marked a turning point for the brand.
Before this point Breitling relied largely on modified ETA and Valjoux movements. These were reliable and widely respected, but they did not position the brand as a true manufacture.
The B01 changed that perception.
This in-house chronograph uses a column wheel and vertical clutch design. The column wheel provides precise chronograph control, while the vertical clutch prevents the seconds hand from jumping when the chronograph starts.
The movement is COSC certified to within minus four to plus six seconds per day and offers a 70 hour power reserve.
For buyers on the pre-owned market the presence of the B01 often increases desirability. It also helps ensure strong long-term parts availability and service support.
Breitling’s B09 movement is derived from the B01 architecture but removes the automatic winding system. This creates a thinner manual-wind chronograph that appeals strongly to collectors who appreciate traditional watchmaking. The movement retains the column wheel design and chronometer certification of the B01 while offering a more classic mechanical experience through manual winding.
Choosing the right Breitling largely depends on how you plan to wear the watch.
The Navitimer remains Breitling’s most iconic model. Its slide rule bezel and complex dial design are instantly recognisable and closely tied to the brand’s aviation history. For collectors who want a watch with genuine pilot heritage, the Navitimer is the natural choice.
The Chronomat offers the most balanced option in the Breitling range. With 200 metres of water resistance and a more restrained dial layout than the Navitimer, it works well as an everyday luxury sports watch.
The Super Chronomat takes the Chronomat concept and increases the scale. Larger cases, ceramic bezel options and bold dial colours give it a stronger modern sports watch character.
The Superocean is the most practical Breitling for water use. High water resistance and strong legibility make it suitable for swimming and diving while still retaining the brand’s tool watch identity.
The Top Time provides a more relaxed chronograph design inspired by the 1960s. For buyers who want something slightly different from the traditional aviation look, it offers strong character at a more accessible price point.
Ultimately there is no single “best” Breitling model. The right choice depends on whether you prioritise aviation heritage, everyday wearability, diving capability or vintage chronograph style.
Breitling sits firmly in the price range where counterfeit watches exist. Authentication should always be taken seriously.
Most modern Breitling watches have serial numbers engraved between the lugs. These should correspond with known production ranges for the reference. Caseback engravings should be crisp and well spaced. Counterfeits often show poor engraving quality.
If the watch has a display caseback, examine the movement carefully. The rotor should carry Breitling engraving and the finishing should match the expected standard for that model.
Original box and warranty card also add credibility to a watch’s history. They do not guarantee authenticity but they help establish provenance.
The safest approach is always to buy from a specialist dealer who authenticates watches before sale.
At MVS Watches every Breitling is fully authenticated prior to listing and supplied with a six month warranty and insured UK delivery.
Breitling sits in the same price category as several other well-known Swiss manufacturers, and many buyers compare these brands before making a decision.
OMEGA offers a wider range of watch styles, including the famous Seamaster and Speedmaster collections. Breitling tends to focus more heavily on aviation heritage and chronographs. For buyers interested specifically in pilot watches and chronograph functionality, Breitling often has the stronger identity.
TUDOR watches typically emphasise dive watch design and tool-watch durability. Breitling offers a broader range of chronographs and aviation-inspired models. Buyers choosing between the two often decide based on whether they prefer a dive watch aesthetic or a chronograph-focused brand.
TAG Heuer has strong motorsport heritage and produces a wide range of accessible chronographs. Breitling generally positions itself slightly higher in terms of finishing and mechanical movements, particularly with the introduction of the in-house B01 calibre.
Most Breitling watches should be viewed primarily as enthusiast purchases rather than financial investments. However, certain references hold value well on the secondary market. Vintage Navitimer models, early Chronomat references from the 1980s, and limited edition Top Time chronographs often attract consistent collector demand.
Breitling recommends servicing mechanical movements approximately every four to six years. A service typically includes movement cleaning, lubrication, gasket replacement and water resistance testing.
The B01 is Breitling’s in-house chronograph calibre introduced in 2009. It uses a column wheel and vertical clutch architecture and provides a 70 hour power reserve. The movement is COSC certified for chronometer accuracy and is widely regarded as one of the strongest modern chronograph movements in this price category.
Most modern Breitling watches depreciate slightly from retail before stabilising on the secondary market. Models with strong heritage such as the Navitimer and Chronomat tend to perform better than more niche references. Condition, originality and documentation remain the most important factors affecting value.
Our pre-owned Breitling collection is updated regularly as new watches arrive. Availability changes quickly, particularly for popular models such as the Navitimer and Chronomat.
If you are searching for a specific reference, contact us directly and we can help source the closest available option.
You may also want to compare Breitling with other leading Swiss brands including TAG Heuer and OMEGA.
Discover microbrand watches from independent watchmakers including Baltic, MING, Kurono Tokyo and more in this guide to modern independent watch brands.
A first-hand look at British Watchmakers’ Day 2026 at Lindley Hall, featuring Fears, Christopher Ward, Farer and more British watch brands.
Discover heritage revival watch brands including Vulcain, Doxa, Nivada Grenchen and Louis Erard. The return of forgotten Swiss icons.
Buying a pre-owned luxury watch in the UK has never been more popular. For many
The Rolex Daytona is one of the most recognisable chronographs ever produced. It is also
At MVS Watches, the question we hear most often from buyers looking at pre-owned OMEGA