Trematic Archivio Uno Ref. 802: The Return of a 1950s Moonphase

The Trematic Archivio Uno Ref. 802 Collector’s Edition brings one of the brand’s most important historic complications back into production. Combining a complete calendar with a moonphase display, it draws directly from the watches Trematic produced during the 1950s, when calendar complications formed a significant part of the company’s identity.

Limited to just 30 individually numbered pieces worldwide, the Ref. 802 is not intended to be a mainstream modern dress watch. Its 35.3mm case, traditional dial arrangement and unusual mechanical architecture are aimed squarely at collectors who appreciate vintage Swiss watchmaking but want the reliability of a newly manufactured watch.

We have now handled and photographed the Ref. 802 at MVS Watches. Although its dimensions appear small by current standards, the proportions make considerably more sense once the watch is seen in person and worn on the wrist.

Reconnecting Trematic with Its Past

Trematic was established during the early 1950s and became known for producing refined Swiss watches with a strong emphasis on mechanical reliability and balanced design. Complete calendar and moonphase watches were among the more sophisticated pieces associated with the company during this period.

Like many smaller historic Swiss manufacturers, Trematic eventually disappeared from the mainstream watch industry. Its recent revival has therefore focused on recovering designs and ideas from the company’s archives rather than creating an entirely new identity around the old name.

The Archivio Uno collection began this process with the Ref. 502, a restrained three-hand watch based around Trematic’s mid-century dress-watch styling. The Ref. 802 takes the concept considerably further by reviving the calendar and moonphase complication that once represented the more ambitious side of the brand.

According to Trematic’s official Ref. 802 archive, the new watch was conceived as a modern interpretation rather than a direct reproduction. The objective was to retain the character and proportions of the original pieces while using contemporary materials and a serviceable Swiss movement.

That distinction matters. The Ref. 802 does not feel like a modern watch with a few vintage details applied to it. Its size, dial construction and complication all follow the logic of the period that inspired it.

A Complete Calendar and Moonphase Display

The dial presents a considerable amount of information without abandoning the symmetry expected of a traditional dress watch.

A pointer date is displayed around the outer edge of the dial, while separate recessed counters indicate the day and month. The moonphase sits prominently at 12 o’clock, creating a balanced triangular arrangement across the upper and lower halves of the dial.

Hours, minutes and seconds complete the display.

The dial uses applied wedge-shaped hour markers, polished hands and contrasting calendar markings against a dark background. Red accents on selected date numerals introduce a small amount of colour without disturbing its formal appearance.

It is busy, but deliberately so. A complete calendar should invite closer inspection, and the compact dial makes the different indications feel integrated rather than spread across a large empty surface.

It is also worth clarifying that this is a complete calendar, not a perpetual calendar. The watch displays the day, date, month and moonphase, but it does not automatically account for months of different lengths. Manual correction will therefore be required at the end of shorter months.

That is normal for this type of complication and is part of the mechanical interaction that many collectors enjoy.

ETA and Dubois Dépraz Mechanics

Inside the Ref. 802 is an ETA 2846 automatic movement fitted with a Dubois Dépraz 9201 calendar and moonphase module.

Dubois Dépraz is one of Switzerland’s best-known complication specialists, supplying modules and specialist mechanisms to numerous established watch manufacturers. Its calendar module allows Trematic to deliver the full display without developing an impractical proprietary movement for an edition of only 30 watches.

The ETA base movement runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour, uses 21 jewels and provides up to 43 hours of power reserve. It supports both automatic and manual winding.

This is a sensible movement choice for a watch intended to be collected and worn. The ETA architecture gives the Ref. 802 a more realistic prospect of future servicing than an obscure historic calibre, while the Dubois Dépraz module supplies the mechanical interest expected from a complete calendar moonphase.

The movement can be viewed through the sapphire section in the caseback. Trematic has used a rounded, bubble-back-style profile, helping accommodate the additional calendar mechanism while preserving the character of a mid-century watch.

Are the 35.3mm Dimensions Too Small?

At 35.3mm in diameter, the Ref. 802 is smaller than most contemporary men’s watches. That figure will inevitably discourage buyers who are accustomed to 40mm sports watches, but judging this model by diameter alone misses the point.

The case measures 44mm from lug to lug with a 20mm lug width. Those measurements give the watch enough length and strap presence to avoid feeling insubstantial. Its 13mm overall thickness also provides more physical depth than a simple vintage dress watch.

Having handled the Ref. 802, the proportions feel right for the design. It is compact, but that compactness gives the calendar display the intimate, mechanically dense character associated with genuine watches from the 1950s. Increasing it to 39mm or 40mm might have made it easier to sell, but it would also have weakened the historical connection.

This is best viewed as a modern alternative to owning a complicated vintage watch, not as a smaller substitute for a current sports model.

It should suit collectors with smaller and medium-sized wrists particularly well. It may also appeal to anyone who has grown tired of oversized cases and wants a watch that sits neatly within the wrist rather than dominating it.

Independent watch publication The Wind Up reached a similar conclusion, describing its restrained proportions as central to the authenticity of the design.

Case, Crystal and Finishing

The case is manufactured from 316L stainless steel and combines polished and brushed surfaces. This mixture helps define the case shape and prevents the watch from appearing excessively formal or reflective.

A sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating protects the dial. The caseback is screw-secured and includes a sapphire display window with its own anti-reflective treatment.

Water resistance is rated to 5 ATM, equivalent to approximately 50 metres. That is adequate for normal daily wear and incidental contact with water, although this is clearly not intended as a swimming or diving watch.

The Italian-made vegan strap measures 20mm at the lugs and tapers to 16mm at the stainless-steel pin buckle. The pronounced taper reinforces the vintage proportions and keeps the complete watch feeling refined on the wrist.

Trematic Ref. 802 Specifications

Specification	Details
Model	Trematic Archivio Uno Ref. 802 Collector’s Edition
Production	30 individually numbered pieces
Case	316L stainless steel
Diameter	35.3mm excluding crown
Thickness	13mm including crystal
Lug-to-lug	44mm
Lug width	20mm
Movement	ETA 2846 élaboré automatic
Calendar module	Dubois Dépraz 9201
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month and moonphase
Frequency	21,600 vibrations per hour
Jewels	21
Power reserve	Up to 43 hours
Crystal	Sapphire with internal anti-reflective coating
Caseback	Screw-secured display back with sapphire crystal
Water resistance	50 metres
Strap	Italian-made vegan strap
Warranty	Five-year international warranty

A Limited Edition That Is Actually Limited

“Collector’s Edition” is used rather loosely within the watch industry, but a worldwide production run of 30 numbered watches is genuinely small.

The Ref. 802 is also sufficiently different from Trematic’s regular collection to justify the designation. It is not simply a new dial colour or an existing reference with commemorative engraving. The complete calendar movement, compact case and historical link give it a distinct position within the revived Trematic range.

Trematic has stated that the edition will not be repeated. Assuming that remains the case, the Ref. 802 will stay one of the rarest watches produced since the brand’s return.

Rarity alone does not make a watch collectable, but it becomes more meaningful when attached to a model that reflects an important part of the manufacturer’s history. The Ref. 802 succeeds because its limited production supports the concept rather than replacing it.

Who Is the Ref. 802 For?

This is not a watch designed to satisfy everyone.

Collectors who prefer large cases, simple dials or modern sports-watch styling will probably find it too small and too traditional. The 13mm thickness also means it is not an ultra-thin dress watch despite its compact diameter.

Its appeal lies elsewhere. The Ref. 802 is for someone who appreciates mechanically expressive dials, historically accurate proportions and watches that require a little explanation. It offers the visual character of an original 1950s calendar watch without asking its owner to accept a 70-year-old movement, fragile components or uncertain water resistance.

At £1,985, it also occupies an interesting position in the market. Swiss-made complete calendar moonphase watches are uncommon at this level, particularly when combined with such a small production run.

Viewing the Trematic Archivio Uno Ref. 802 at MVS Watches

The Trematic Archivio Uno Ref. 802 listed by MVS Watches is physically held in stock and has been inspected and photographed by us. It is supplied new with its presentation box, certificate of authenticity and five-year international Trematic warranty.

Holding the watch in stock is especially relevant in this case because the 35.3mm dimensions are difficult to assess from specifications alone. The watch has more presence and better-balanced proportions in person than the diameter might suggest.

You can view the Trematic Archivio Uno Ref. 802 currently available from MVS Watches or browse our wider selection of Trematic watches.

Final Thoughts

The Trematic Archivio Uno Ref. 802 is one of the most convincing watches released since the brand’s revival because it reconnects Trematic with something it was genuinely known for producing.

Its complete calendar and moonphase display, 35.3mm case and restrained styling are not generic heritage cues. Together, they recreate the character of the sophisticated calendar watches that helped establish Trematic’s reputation during the 1950s.

The dimensions will make it a niche proposition, but that is part of its appeal. Enlarging the watch to satisfy current expectations would have produced an easier product, not necessarily a better one.

For collectors who want rarity, mechanical interest and proper mid-century proportions, the Ref. 802 offers something difficult to find elsewhere, particularly at under £2,000 and in an edition of only 30 pieces.

Trematic Archivio Uno Ref. 802 FAQs